June 19 - June 20 - Morille to & In Salamanca

Arturo left first and I took my time. It was another hot day. I walked through many groves, a very rocky path, grooved by water and tires... I came upon a bunch of cattle blocking a gate. One of the things one must watch for is those big black bulls. I already knew of a cyclist who had been chased by one. These were a family of them, a very large family....as in many daddies, mommies and babies. They were smack in the middle of the trail and that gate was right behind them. When I approached, they all turned to look at me and would not move. I would not move either, which put me in that position of what in the hell do I do now? I scoped out the area.... where would I run to... ok trees over there, I think I could make it. Open area there, and trees, but too far and cows and bulls can run fast! I pretended I was going to keep walking but they became very alert and I decided I would wait. I remember the German sisters(Ana & MariSofia) who I had passed at one time, and of course they had asked where I slept last night. They had been concerned of my not arriving in San Pedro. So I waited for them. My idea was that if we walked 3 abreast, we would look larger. I lost time, but I still had not felt safe about these large animals. And of course we walked on through and they all moved to the sides and no big deal! Chicken-shit here.
It got hotter. I had planned on calling Conrado, who we had met weeks earlier and was expecting me to call him so he could show us around Salamanca. Little did he know that now, 3 weeks later, I would be arriving, alone. But my phone was dead. I rested in front of a man's home, under the only tree I had seen for some time. That little section was lined with poppies and other wild flowers, and when under a tree, the breeze seems to blow nicely. I heard Arturo approaching along the way; after chatting a bit of course I again left him behind. We were to meet up in the albergue in Salamanca and have dinner. That never happened and I never saw him again. I came upon a hill overlooking Salamanca, and it had a beautiful and incredible view of the city. The cross was placed up there in such a way as to make one want to stop and just stare into Salamanca.

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I went down that hill towards the city and met and chatted with a man who was walking his dogs. He was throwing a stick into a pond and the dogs gladly would go after it and cool off at the same time. He brings them here every week he says. It was soooo hot! So when I walked into a tunnel, decorated with graffiti I stayed there a bit, until that wind chilled me and I was ready to head in to the city.


The cathedral was to the right, but the road leading in went around the city to the left. If it weren't for those arrows I would have bee-lined it to the old town and taken less time. Nevertheless it went through a nice park. I laid down under the trees, for again I needed to cool off.










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Walking into the old town was amazing. I had to cross a bridge and the architecture changed, with evidence of ancient buildings all around me. It was so clean, I remember that for some reason. The buildings looked scrubbed-clean. One sees soot settling on and staining them so when I saw these so perfect it caught my attention.


I got to the albergue but it was not open yet, so I sat in a little park next to it. On the way in I had seen some people dressed as knights and ladies in gowns. One of those ladies was sitting in the bench next to me and we chatted. Apparently many businesses play a type of scavenger hunt using period costumes of ancient days, where the employees get to "play" but in essence they are exercising? It was cute. THe albergue opened and the hospitalera was very kind. The place is beautiful. She showed me to my room and soon there were 2 othr women there, including Andrea (the German woman) and a new peregrina, Ana (from Australia). I napped for a bit, took a shower and walked around for a bit, had to see the famous Plaza Mayor which was as magnificent as I had heard it would be.





Then I called Conrado. He told me not to move that he was on his way. A very kind man, he showed me his business, a brand new glass building and then to his home. Later we went with he and his lady friend to dinner.


The restaurant was beautiful, the dinner and wine and conversation fun fun fun. So, I missed my curfew. Dinner in Spain starts late, and when an albergue closes at 10pm, what can a happy peregrina do? Stay out!! So after dinner we went to the albergue, I rang the bell and felt bad about it but no one came so we went to his g/f's home. Elisa is an editor and promoter of children's books and she read us some stories as we drank champagne. Oh what fun!
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The next morning they drove me to the albergue and I really did feel bad that they worried about me. Apparently the bell does not work, so all is forgiven. While Conrado went to work I explored the city, had some tapas, beer, Shandy and sweets.


I found the astronaut (with a little help) on the cathedral and I found the frog on the skull (with a little help) at the University's building. This town is busy, many tourists, many students. There was music outside the cathedral and generally people looked sooo happy, laughing, men sitting on benches discussing something or another.... just very lively.

One place I went to, and by coincidence, for I walked by it and read that this building contained Spanish Civil War archives. I went in just hoping there would be something there related to my parents, so after going through security I was taken upstairs where I spoke with a gentleman who took my data and disappeared for a while. I saw the encyclopedias that used to sit on my dad's library shelves, and knew I would find my great-grandfather there, so I photographed his page. Shortly after the man appeared with 3 records of my father, all related to his training for officers. Funny that a man so young as he was a lieutenant in the war. Well, he was a man with a wife and he was only 18 years old. He lied about his age. Still, it was quite moving to see my dad's name there. They will email me with any more information they find on him. The last name was changed, since dad is Catalan and they allow an N before a P, whereas the Castellanos do not allow it so Madrid changed dad's last name to Sampere instead of Sanpere. They did not find any data on mom, who was a nurse during the war.


Loved Salamanca!! Conrado came after work and we went out to dinner with another g/f to a chirichanga or chiringanga or chimichanga or whatever it's called, but basically it is a series of outdoor cafes along the river consisting of the kitchen and bathroom. The rest is all outdoor tables. People of all ages late into the night eating incredible food. What a life!!

June 18 - Fuenterobles de Salvatierra to Morille

I watched with one eye open and one closed as people left. As always, last to leave. I cannot imagine a bunch of people up at the same time trying to use the bathroom. I feel so much more at ease when I go slow. The regulars, ie (hot guy) Father Blas and the other hospitaleros were still asleep, probably tired from walking all night in the moonlight. Only one was awake, and I saw him in the checking-in room working with his leather, making the necessary gear for the donkeys. It is a gentle and dedicated work, making sure the animals are well equipped. I said good-bye and walked out. I was quickly in the countryside, very cool morning, but bright and clear. I was out on a prairie, or the Via's version of the Meseta from the Camino Frances, and at one moment I was in the middle of it, just barely making out the snowy hills behind me and those yet to come in front of me, far in both horizons.

It was my intention to walk to Pedrosillo. Arturo wanted to get to San Pedro. The German girls were going there as well. I would walk along and could make out a figure up ahead, resting under a tree. It was Arturo, who walks slow and steady. I walk quicker and catch up with him, we chat and start walking again. He is like the tortoise, slow and steady, I like the hare, quick and tire quicker. I stop and he catches up. We did this for a while. What was fun is walking away from him and I could hear him singing. I would sing quietly the same song as he. Jack the Knife, old Spanish songs my mom used to sing, songs I remember hearing in the '50s from my brothers' turntables. He knew sooo many songs. I would stop and rest and I could then hear him coming. It was reassuring.... I had a companion and he was alright. I finally reached trees and a curious scene... different markers of the Via, a cross and a teepee made from branches. It was the beginning of a little forest, giving respite from the sun. Another cross there, and I remember JohnnieWalker mentioning the series of crosses and knew I was in that scene he had created for me in the email. I enjoy moments like these, where something I had heard about appears on the scene. That was special in my first camino, the Frances. And the one that stands out in my mind was that trek out of Pamplona and up that mountain to the top and there appeared all the iron sculptures I had seen over and over in photos. I cried. So here I was seeing the series of crosses and had one of those sweet moments. I did not cry though. I went inside the teepee and sat a while, wondering who had made it, and how many people had used it possibly? I imagined or possibly I really felt the energy of the place. Very special. I reached (what I thought was...) the top of the hill, to see that cross, that somehow did not seem as special as I had imagined. The view from there was amazing...so high up there and seeing the valleys below, so far below.
Luckily a nice clear day. I sat under some trees, layed out my sarong, took off my shoes, lit some incense and sat there. I heard that singing again and Arturo came. I told him to rest a bit and he likewise took off his shoes. I offered oranges and he accepted. I like these rests. What I really enjoy is that I am not in a rush to get anywhere. No need, really, for the next albergue will be there for me whether I arrive at noon or 6pm. He talked me into going to San Pedro. The girls would be there as well. We walked downhill, winding around those hills, through beautiful country and we came to a gate. The sign seemed unclear to us. It had two arrows pointing straight ahead, one of them straight (to Pedrosillo) with one of them pointing ahead and to the left (to San Pedro). The guide was not clear either of the directions to take. Fast forward... it was wrong. Apparently we were supposed to turn left right there and then through the trees, but it did not make sense for we could not see a clear path. Well, of course we thought we were going in the correct direction. Through some gates we went. I went ahead for a while and when I came to the end of that trail, one had to go either left or right. No sign there. I waited for Arturo and we decided it had to be to the left. We kept walking. I was sooo hot and dehydrated. Ran out of water and just had to stay under what little shade I could find just to cool off a bit. I felt a headache, not a good sign. Definite dehydration. I was sitting in the ditch. The fencing would not allow me to go deeper into the woods, and it was the only spot with shade. I saw the town up ahead and decided to rest a while. Arturo caught up and we went on together. Cute cute town. I walked way ahead and the first bar I saw I went in. It had a lovely courtyard and there were many laborers taking their lunch break. There was even a large pool out back, still closed for the season. I drank and drank until satisfied and sat at a table outside until Arturo showed up. Guess where we are? Pedrosillo!! The woman owner told us this and I jsut laughed. I guess I came to where I had wanted to in the first place! She offered the day's menu... Arturo had pork jaw in some kind of delicious sauce, I had beef tongue in an exquisite tomato based sauce. Veggies, a huge salad,bread, wine and a delicious creamy dessert....10 euros. We sat under that tree, with my toes caressing that soft green grass, the breeze so cooling, and I was happy. Already I had forgotten how dry and tired I had just felt. Renewed!! So where is the albergue? I am home!!
Mari told us not to stay in this town, that the albergue is terrible and that we should move on to Morille. What??? That is another 12 kilometers! I was not convinced... until the two of them did the concincing for me. I never did see the albergue to get a clear picture of it myself, but when she told me there is no warm water for the showers, I felt I could move on. I hate cold water!! That walk to Morille took forever. Only 12 kilometers? For real? I think it was longer. We stayed together this time. Interminable!! Road walking!! Hot hot hot!! At least we had water. My feet hurt, alot! I had to stop frequently to rest. Damn it!! I should have stayed and skipped the shower. Each time we came around the bend.... another bend.... and another. Finally, at 9pm we arrived in Morille. 9PM!!! It was a cute village, with children and their parents playing in the dusty streets. The key was at the bar.... the only place to eat... but not tonight. No food!!!!! Ahhh, I had enough in my pack for the 2 of us. It was a mish-mash dinner of odds and ends but it was dinner. The albergue was tiny, 3 bunk beds, one small bathroom, Donativo. HOT water!! I was sore enough to take some Ibuprofen. First time ever. WOW,that bed felt wonderful! TOTAL 30 Kms.

June 17 - Calzada de Bejar to Fuenterobles de Salvatierra

I must have slept so soundly I heard nothing! Obviously I was very tired from lack of sleep and a very long day yesterday. The rain helps... everyone likes sleeping with the rain coming down. This morning, no rain. The girls are gone, the cyclists are getting ready, eating breakfast, which I skip. I never eat before I leave. Typically I walk until 10 or 11am and then I eat something light. Andrea left her hat at the albergue and called about it. One of the cyclists would carry it with him and give it to her when he spots her ahead. This kind of thing happens frequently. Many times cyclists will carry items left behind.... usually they're plugged-in electronics, ie phones, battery chargers, and drop them off at albergues ahead, or give them directly to the pilgrim that left it.
It was recommended I walk the road ("just 2 kilometers extra", he said) because everything is quite wet, not just with last night's rain but also with the morning dew... and I am wearing sandals. I opt for the trail... I can handle wet, and I do dislike road walking, right?
When I walk through the trail, which is only 8 inches wide, I do get wet, socks and lower pants legs, but I really do not mind. Although it is quite cold, and windy. The wind blows just right into my ears making that noise that sounds like a storm.... how annoying. I wrap my head with my sarong so that my ears are covered and I don't hear it as much. Oh Yeah, I can see it snowed last night!! WOW! The mountaintops are white.
Now walking on a dirt road, along pastures full of black bulls, I can hear singing. The wind carries the voices. I turn around and in the distance are the 2 cyclist brothers. They catch up to me and stop and we chat a bit. One of them wears an MP3, looks for a song, and as they drive off, they start singing "America", some Spanish song, and each time the word America was sung, their arms would fly up in the air. It was a special touch, lovely men. (smiles) So my first challenge of the day.... my guide says it's a dry river bed...well it's not dry at all. The water is moving swiftly and it is deep. Stones are placed for us to walk, but my legs cannot reach one of them, which happens to be very pointy and I know I will fall in if I try to jump onto it. So I take off my backpack and my sandals and socks. I throw the socks across first, fine, then the first sandal I throw hits a tree but makes it fine, but the second sandal taught me I am not a good thrower.... yeah, threw it right into the river, and there it goes! The water is taking it! Luckily some weeds on the side caught it, so I did not have to go far to retrieve it. The idea that I could lose my shoes,,,,, well, you see, they are the only ones I have. Phew!! After that wonderful throw I decided not to try to throw my backpack. I put it back on and with the help of my walking sticks, I walk over the stones and make it across. The water by the way was freezing! So glad I did not fall in!

What a crazy day. This is one of those, you had to be there moments, to understand why I would say, "No one would believe what I just did and went through". I was strolling along, just fine, when I came to an odd waymarker. What was odd was that there was one arrow pointing to the right, but it had been painted over, although you could still see clearly it was there, and there were 2 arrows pointing to the left. My guide said the trail went to the right. But I was sure it had something to do with the trail having changed.

Two roads diverged in a wood, and I--

I took the one less traveled by,

And that has made all the difference.

- Robert Frost (1874 - 1963), The Road Not Taken

Well, I do like an adventure or a challenge, so yeah, I went to the right. I could see footprints, so someone else must have gone this way. The road went between 2 stone walls, you know the kind.... they are all over....miles and miles of 3 to 4 feet high stacked stone walls? The trail was nice, with trees providing shade. You could tell it is not transited much, for the grass was a bit high. A puddle here and there, ohhhh, hmmm water. Well, maybe I could step right on the edges against the wall, holding onto branches, yeah, I can keep going. Oh boy, water is now to the edges. I can possibly stand on top of the wall on the left side, and hold onto the barbed wire fencing for stability and walk along it. Let me try. Oh shit! These stones are rocking, and I would really hate to fall and have these barbs stuck in me and I would be found weeks later all dried up hanging from the fence. Ewwww I climb back down, and now go to the right side. I could go back I guess, but I have come so far, and I can tell eventually the road goes up that hill, which means there will be no more water, so I'll just keep going. To the right side I go. I can see that over on the other side of the wall it is all grassy. The bulls are pretty far away, so I can just hop over and walk along the wall until the water is behind me. Yeah good idea. So I take off my backpack, put it on the wall, and I carefully go to the top of the wall, which is wobbling like hell, and jump onto the pasture, except that my feet have sunk to my ankles. It was so wet here, but I could not tell because of the overgrown grass, and here I am sunk into the grass. Well, at this point I am just going to go on. Ohhh, that's poop I just stepped onto!!! Shit!!Damn!! Plodding along, I occasionally peek back over the wall wondering when the water is going to end and I can go back on my trail, and get away from all this poop and those cows and bulls that are a bit too close now. Well, the wall now goes to the right and I have to keep going straight, which means I have to get back over the wall to the trail again. Of course I keep thinking that I know now why my arrow was painted over and there were not one but two arrows telling me to go left! (remembering of course that I like adventures) So the wall now is much much higher, as tall as me, and if I try to jump back over (and land in knee deep water which is brown) I could twist my ankle on who knows what, so I take off my backpack again and carefully climb back to the top and sit there, and now what! I am afraid to jump, I cannot place my feet onto any stones! Well, I pray for forgiveness to whomever built this magnificent wall and push two of the top stones into the water and use them to step onto while holding onto a couple of branches. So now I am knee deep in the water, and I cannot lift these rocks to place them back. Sorry. I pull my backpack down off the wall, put it on, and start walking through the water which is filled with high grass. It is very dense now, and my arms are scratched through my sleeves and bleeding from the thorns of the bushes. My hands have thorns stuck in them. My backpack and my sarong get snagged. I slosh through the water for over a half hour and I can see I am going uphill now, and yes, the water is more shallow and finally, dry. My socks are not muddy or shitty anymore (thinking of the bright side). I meander between the walls a little longer and finally open fields! I made it, and I can see my trail again. I walk through a field of beautiful yellow, blue, purple, orange and red flowers and I am almost giggling I was so happy. Happy, not because I knew I was in a safe place, or that I made it, but that I actually did it, I did not quit, I did not go back! That was the trail that pilgrims took once upon a time and I walked the same one as they. And I did not take one photo of this. I was just so busy trying to get through it.
On the trail now walking and I heard airplanes, not typical ones, but loud ones, fast ones. I looked up and there were what I assume were Spanish Air Force jets doing maneuvers. Zipping through the air. I looked down and my feet had what must have been a hundred little blue butterflies. I thought, "what contrast". Above and below...War and Peace. As I walked along, with each step, the butterflies were flying off the ground and I was accompanied by them for quite a while. Thousands of them! It was such a pleasant moment.
I took off my socks and pinned the wet dirty things to my backpack and went on. I walked into a small village and decided I better eat something, for who knows when I will eat again. As if I was starving!! Not! And there was Andrea, with her hat. We sat together and she told me it was nuts of me to have gone the way I did, but how was it? Ohh, you have no idea what you missed, Andrea. Her German guide also said the trail went to the right and she did at first, so it was her footprints I had seen. But come to think of it, at one point I saw none (before the water). She had turned back and what had taken me two hours took her half an hour. She left for she had been there a long time already, and I stayed there and ate alone. Feeling rested, I went on.

I had a cell phone so that I can talk to Salvador or be reached by family, and I had it in my hand waiting for 1:37pm to come. See, today is my son Leon's birthday and since I cannot call the States, I will video myself singing happy birthday to him at the exact time of his birth. It's a tradition of ours. I usually call them and tell them their birth story. I found a lovely spot, a large but flat stone where I can sit, take some sun, and wait for the moment. I spread my sarong on the rock, I got my camera ready, pointed it at myself, and when the phone said 1337 I sang happy birthday to him, then I did a 360 degree taping of the area so he can see where I was. Of course it would be a long time before he can see it. So I did and then, knowing no one could be walking behind me, I took my clothes off and laid on that rock. Sunned my belly for the first time since my (colon) cancer surgery. I honored my body. It had pushed little Leon out 20 years ago. I loved this moment I had there, somewhere in Spain, naked on a rock. hahahaha.
Then I heard footsteps! I wrapped my body with my (multi-purpose) sarong and looked around, saw no one, but now I heard more sounds and I see it, I mean I see them, cows, many cows, walking alone to a grassy area to eat. I layed back down. Then I was happy enough, errr, hot enough, and left.
I reach Fuenterobles de Salvatierra and head to the albergue. A young woman skips out the door, welcomes me and asks me if I want to eat with them. Since I had only had a snack a few hours ago, I said yes, walked into the dining area and around a large table were several people finishing their lunch. The girl, a German who was hospitalera for a month, brought me delicious food (first and only time I saw broccoli) and we all chatted awhile. A very handsome man across from me wanted to know a lot about me and where I was from etc. No ring on his finger, I noticed. (smiles, I mean laughs). A couple of hours later I find out the hot looking guy is a priest, Father Blas. Aha! OK. He shows me around, the albergue he has been slowly expanding, the donkey carts from his Romerias. This is a place with good energy. He is doing a pilgrimage this August along the Camino del Norte. Next year his big pilgrimage will be along the Road Francigena to Rome. He expects the pope will meet with them. Would I be interested? I had a very pleasant time there. My 3 German friends and I made plans to eat dinner at the bar. Then Arturo, whom I had met a couple of days earlier shows up and we all went together but had a lousy lousy dinner. The worst on my journey.
Clearly the bar owner convinced us that the menu with many many choices was not as good as what she was offering to make for us. Grrrr, and expensive, 10 euros. The garlic soup tasted like oil, with no hint of garlic, not even bread in it. The protein was 2 fried eggs. Fried potatoes. Wine we did not like to drink...it was a bit ummmmm..... rustic. Not happy pilgrims that night. I learned I should not be swayed like that again. But who knew?
Father Blas was doing a 35km walk through the full moon night and asked me if I wanted to go along. AHHHH, NO!! Like I want to walk 35 kilometers more, and not sleep. But it sounded like it would be a great time. I slept next to Arturo who cried loudly in his sleep for about 5 minutes, a very sad type of wailing, all of us wondering whether to wake him up or not. He finally stopped; I slept. What a day! We have a lovely full moon night.
Total 20.5 KILOMETERS (plus a little extra time being adventurous)

June 16 - Baños de Montemayor to Calzada de Bejar

"In a world where people are attuned to being directed by signs everywhere, how do you explain that the yellow arrows are not a municipal "regulation' but rather an invitation to faith - they are always there, especially when you need them the most, whispering ‘this way’, ‘follow me’, ‘trust me’. It is virtually impossible to convey to others that the Camino is, in so many ways, a metaphor for life" M.Leahy.
So.... I am so excited!! After these 3 weeks waiting until I felt sure I could walk again, I am!! Last night after repacking again (I had to restock, since I gave Salvador what he needed for his walk) and double checking (I am sure other pilgrims know what I am talking about, eh?) I could not sleep. Tossing and turning, listening to music, reading (I finished Eat, Pray, Love, and I strongly recommend it)the end of my book, I finally fell asleep and slept 2 hours. I got early to the metro station, I am not missing my bus back! It was a nice bus ride, watching the scenery change from city, to flatlands, dry and brown, to mountains, wet and green.
Immediately after getting off the bus, I went to the Ayuntamiento (city hall) and got my credencial stamped. I had not gotten it stamped when I walked to Baños de Montemayor 3 weeks ago, so I did, and when I walked out I met my first pilgrim. Arturo, who I would meet again and again. He was to rest here for a bite but I was eager to get walking.
When I left 3 weeks ago, the bus ride out of Baños was crazy, switchbacking back and forth several times until we made it over the mountain. I was really hoping I would not have to do that much walking, and sure enough the path would take me straight up and over. It was an old Roman road, stones to help get good footing, as it was sprinkling on and off and without then it would have been messy and slippery. I stopped several times to take pictures and admire the view, Baños appearing lower and lower until I went over the mountain. I used my little umbrella for a while. I walked under a bridge that had a nice layout of the Via. The wildflowers were beautiful and plentiful. It was a quiet road, and being alone was wonderful. I found a wall where I could sit and eat and stare into the valleys below, towns so far away it felt like this mountain was all mine for the moment. My legs dangled over the wall and I ate a bocadillo of ham that my uncle had sliced from that whole pig leg he has sitting on his kitchen counter. Several cherries and I was good to go. It was warm again, so off with the fleece, but then it got cooler again. It did that back and forth until it sprinkled again, then it just felt cold. There are different way markers that I have not learned about, with odd markings, I wondered if I could find info about them somewhere.
I crossed the Malena bridge, an old Roman bridge that is well known, and below the river was rushing, as it had rained quite a bit lately. I loved the sound of it and stayed for a bit.
The sprinkling was constant now, so used my left hand for the umbrella and the right with my walking stick, for there were some areas where it came in very handy. There was a very stony path that went uphill and once over I walked on the path that paralleled a paved road. Suddenly it poured. I am talking, skies opened up and buckefulls came down. My poncho was in the backpack and I struggled trying to stay under the umbrella, protect my backpack and get the poncho and put it on. I was soaked as soaked as I could be, and luckily the inside of the backpack was not too wet. I do put my other change of clothes in a ziplock bag.
I walked through Puerto de Bejar, but my destination was Calzada de Bejar, where I had heard there was a wonderful albergue on the entrance to the village. The hospitalero and a German woman were there waiting for me and asked me if I had seen other pilgrims. Other than Arturo, no one else. He did not arrive there, probably stayed in Puerto de Bejar since the rain was so heavy.


The place was warm and welcoming. He lit a fire so that we could dry our things. Clothes, backpacks, boots were all lined up there. We were one Austrian woman, 2 German sisters (first young people I had seen), 2 Spanish brothers on bikes and me. The hospitalera encouraged me to eat her meal, and even though I had food for tonight I decided to join them and glad I did. The hot garlic soup warmed me right up.
Although the skies were heavy with rain clouds it stopped long enough to go outside a and check out the horse that was looking for attention. And she got it. One of the guys was already there and fed her some grass. I too pulled some for her and she gladly ate it from me, enveloping my whole hand with her soft lips, as her teeth pulled on the grass. We took some pictures and she did not want us to leave her, walking along the fence until it ended. I felt so much love. I walked back in and as I closed the door I was gifted with a complete rainbow.

I would sleep good tonight.
Although it felt much longer.... TOTAL: 13Km

May 26 - In Madrid

We arrived in Madrid and explained to everyone what had happened and with open arms we were welcomed back. Now here, I settled in, I have my own room and Salvador his as well, and decided all I could do is take it a little at a time. I looked for things for Salvador to do and found there was a HipHop festival next weekend and we bought tickets. Salvador went with his cousin and his friends. A 2 day festival, he had a great time. Super great!
As the days went by, I told Salvador, "this is what life is going to be like for a while", meaning, in the house, sitting around, doing nothing much. He told me he decided to walk again, except that this time he wanted to do the Camino Frances, the one I walked last year. He had heard me and others talk about what it is like there. More villages, more people, more people his age..... so off he went. He calls me every 2 days to tell me where he is, who with, what he´s eating, etc. I think it was the best decision. He is liking it a lot. Has met many people and is now with a little group, 2 English girls, a German guy, and others from other countries that join every so often. They are taking turns cooking, they are making decisions together, in other words, it is a good thing.
Me?
Well, I cook for my uncle twice a day. He told me yesterday that he is going to be lonely after I leave since he is getting used to the company. Awww. I told his daughters, they will make sure he is ok.
I take Ron out for a walk every day, sometimes twice a day. And play with him. I think of Shiloh, my doggy.
I have blogged all this finally, and am caught up. Better than last year´s blogging I believe. I read my book, Eat, Pray, Love. I recommend it.
I rested. Just what my ankle needed, I did go to the hospital and was declined medical care. I went to a private doctor and he sent me for an ultrasound, why I am not sure, for all they can see is that yes, you do have swelling (duh) and RICE it. I told ya!
And waited. Very patiently. It will be 3 weeks tomorrow, June 16 and I am leaving. YEP!! Going back to the Via. Tomorrow. I am taking a bus and starting in Baños de Montemayor, the town I had last walked to.
Cristina, my cousin, has not had her babies yet, and I promised her I would return to help her.
Inga, my friend, is coming from Tallahassee and we will meet up on the 25th of June to explore Cadiz.


So it looks like I will be walking the Via in bits and pieces. But, that is my compromise. The important thing is that I can walk again, my son is walking and we are each doing our own Camino.
Love to you all, and I will be blogging again when I can.
HASTA LA VIA, BABY!!

May 26 - Aldeanueva del Camino to Baños de Montemayor

Very cloudy, cold, humid and windy. We started walking and again, on the road. That little pain I had last night is present, just a little nagging hot spot in that ankle.

Extremadura is known for its cherries according to my uncle; even the Japanese come here to see the trees in bloom and want to take the flavor of Spain back to Japan. Well there they were, trees full of cherries. Passed a few and when I had to pee, I saw one tree right by the road and it had one, just one little cherry hanging there. The sign said ok, you can pick, we are all done. How can that be? I can see many many trees full of cherries. So I picked it. Really, it had to be the best tasting cherry I have ever had in my life! A moment of pure pleasure. As we moved on I could see pits all along the road, as I assume, pilgrims earlier that morning must have picked all they could. Wish I could have had more.

I notice the pain in my ankle more now and it is starting to feel very familiar. I cannot describe pain, of course, since it is so subjective, like telling someone what an orgasm feels like or what a sneeze feels like, but it reminds me of something we used to do to each other as kids..... the Chinese arm burn. Per Wikipedia: "The victim's forearm is grasped firmly in both hands, then the hands are twisted in opposite directions around the victim's arm, causing friction burns". Yeah, well that burn? That is what it feels like inside my ankle. Last year when I walked the Camino Frances I got the same kind of pain in another location of my other ankle, same foot though. A tiny spot, but it can be so delibitating. I cannot friggin´ believe it!! All along this trip it has been my other leg/hip that has been causing me grief. I wonder if all that limping caused me to put more pressure on this foot and this is a consequence of that. I had to stop more frequently now as it was burning quite a bit.


I barely made it into Baños de Montemayor. I asked about a doctor and was directed to the Thermal Baths building. This town is famous for its thermal baths, hence its name. Busloads of people arrive all day to partake in these healing baths. OK, sounds like the right spot to start getting some help. I was turned away, due to it being private doctors there. On the other hand, due to my experience last year, I know exactly what I will be told to do. RICE: Rest, Ice, Compression, Elevation; and take anti-inflamatories (Ibuprofen).


Salvador and I discussed my options and I knew, OH, I knew what I was to do. Such a difficult decision to stop walking, to go back to Madrid, to wait it out. Which is exactly what I really have to do. Words cannot express my disappointment. This walking, this journey, camino, is something I came to do, to share with my son, and I have gone through so much pain already, how can this stop me??? But I knew.
I gave Salvador the option to go on without me or go back to Madrid: He chose to go back with me. TOTAL 10,5 KILOMETERS