So the lady tells me not to walk today. The camino is flooded and it is not a good idea. That she was to tell me (by whom?) to go to the next stage by bus (Zamora). I thought about it, really I am not worried about the trail being bad, although it means I will have wet, muddy feet all day, which means the possibility of blisters.... OK. ugh. So she takes me to the bus stop. There I meet another woman who tells me of the trees that had been blown down last night, and of the many homes that got water in them. So it's me and many elderly people going to Zamora. They are going for doctor appointments, food shopping and meeting friends. Conversations were typical of that age. We stopped in many small quiet towns, now inhabited only by old folks, criss-crossing the land. The water had damaged many areas. People are worried about their crops. Ruined!! "Me cago en la puta de oro, maja!" I heard a man say and giggled.
Basi (for Basilia) gave me directions to old town (in major cities or towns the albergues are usually found in the old sections, for they tend to be close to churches or cathedrals). I walked to a bar to eat breakfast and got something I said I would avoid... chocolate con churros!! What with the air heavy with moisture, the temperatures dropping a bit, it seemed like the perfect food.
I arrived at the beautiful new albergue. Everything brand new. And it accomodates many many people. They will be ready for 2010, the Holy Year. The view from my room was incredible, overlooking the valley, across the way a church with many storks nesting, they and their babies clacking. Salvador and I had seen them when they had just hatched back in early May and now they were learning to talk, and fly. I love watching them. Now, listen to them talk:
I took my shower and with the large mirror I realized how tanned I have gotten!! WOW.
I went to the library (free internet). My forum friend is one day behind me, at least I thought. More tomorrow.
At the library there was a photography exhibition by someone named Alfonso that was so powerful I had to see it all.
I toured the streets, the cathedral, the park the castle. Today is San Juan and San Pedro is June 29.
San Pedro is the patron saint of Zamora, which is pretty neat...see, my last name means San Pedro (St Peter) and here I am for the festivities.
I watched the parade of regional costumes, so colorful, beautiful, worn by men, women and children of all ages. They walked several blocks to end up at the cathedral for a special mass.
I saw a dance exhibit by girls that was being televised. Cute cute little girls as well as teenagers dancing in beautiful style.
There were 2 concerts tonight. I missed the one by the cathedral, by some famous Spanish band, but I did get to watch a concert by an orchestra called TirriTarra at the Plaza Mayor. Think of Yanni meets Enya meets Kitaro. Wonderful, and free.
One is given a key to the albergue so I can come and go as desired. That was very freeing, for usually one has to abide by a curfew. Not here, and thankfully not now, since it would have been sad to miss out on the spectacles.
And who wouldn't want to take in all that is offered in such a beautiful city as Zamora?
Well, it is time to leave the Via (for now). Turns out my friend Inga, from Tallahassee and her Peruvian/German friend are coming to Spain and want to meet up with me. Originally Inga thought she might join me for a few days on the walk but plans changed and instead they will be in Madrid tomorrow. So I leave for a few days.
Next morning I got on the net and it turns out my forum friend and I were sleeping in the same albergue together and did not meet or even know it, until my roommate, the German girl told him I was there!! Too funny! Will we ever meet? Stay tuned.
Saturday, June 28, 2008
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