Hasta La Via, Baby

June 30 - Zamora to ...... stay tuned

2008-06-28T17:20:00.001-07:00

PLEASE CLICK ON "OLDER POSTS" TO SEE THE BEGINNING OF MY BLOG

Cute thing I just found...
may be talking about me someday..

My grandma started walking
five miles a day when she was 60..
Now she's 97 years old
and we don't know where she is.-Ellen deGeneres

June 29 - Back to Zamora

2008-06-28T17:19:00.001-07:00

Had gone to bed late and thus woke up late... which meant I missed 2 buses. Took advantage of the time and ate with my cousin Begoña and tio Salvador. I took the 5:30pm bus to Zamora. Before I left I told tio the final score for the futbol game would be Spain 1 - Germany 0. I arrived in Zamora as the game started. I went to the albergue and called the phone number posted, left messages several times and no one ever called me back. I rang the bell, no one answered. So I left a note on the door, letting someone know that a peregrina is trying to get in. I guess with this being the last day of San Pedro's fiesta as well as the big game of the year (the cup), everyone was somewhere else.
I went to a zarzuela concert in Plaza Mayor and it was so folksy, not really my style but definitely worth watching, as it reminded me of mom when she sang a zarzuela tune.
I tried the albergue again. Nothing still. So I went to an art exhibit which were beautiful.... tent after tent of incredible art, whether on canvas, with metal, ceramics, jewelry.....
I ate at the same place I had been to the other day where I befriended the storekeeper and she remembered me. Loved her bocadillos but she was quickly running out of food. I ate my favorite ice cream on a stick, orange covered in chocolate, delightful, and she let me leave my backpack in her place until I could figure out what to do next.
As I was sitting there, the bar next door was noisy with futbol fans and alas, Spain won over Germany 1-0 (see Tio?) The joy that poured out of that bar and spilled onto the streets was emotional. People singing so silly, how Spain was going to get drunk tonight, and some other silly things. Flags were waving all over the streets and the sounds of horns were coming from every direction. I was wondering how Salvador was watching the game and in which locale along the Camino Frances. I called him and he was all happy.... poor Konstantin, one of his camino mates is from Germany, but took it well.
I went down to the cathedral to watch the fireworks, which meant the end of San Pedro's festival. The length of the show was, well, long!! It just kept on going. I managed to squirm through forward enough in the crowd to see some I had never seen before. One was a flower that after it boomed into different directions, each end of it suddenly went back up, almost making a reverse flower. Hard to describe, but I was exhilirated at the beauty and sounds of the show. The grand finale was, yeah, GRAND!! And all along car horns were still beeping all over Zamora, and I am sure, all over Spain!
I got my backpack from the bar and went back to the albergue where finally pilgrims had returned and opened the door for me. I roomed with a girl from Australia. And I had the same bed as the other night.

June 25 - To Madrid

2008-06-28T17:18:00.000-07:00

Wednesday the 25th of June:
I took a bus back to Madrid, to tio Salvador's place, dropped off my rucksack and put on clothes I had not see in a while, then took the metro to cousin Bego's house and got keys for tio's house so I could get back in when I would get back late at night. Then to Inga's hotel. We hugged and laughed about how we were in Spain together!! Far from little ole Tallahassee!! I met her g/f Marta.
They were settled in by now, dressed and ready to go to Cafe las Chinitas. I had made reservations for there a couple of weeks ago and we got a pretty good table close to the stage. This is my third time I have traveled to Spain and attended this establishment. It has a very good, long-standing reputation as one of the best places to see a tablao, a Flamenco show. Dinner was fabulous and then the show.
The singers straining their voices, the musicians hugging their guitars and the dancers.... ahhh the dancers mesmerizing us with their moves, so powerful, sensuous, fun. Inga was wide-eyed and smiling all the time. I took pictures and kept looking over at the 2 girls to see how they were enjoying it. They sure did. We stayed for the second show.
I took a taxi back and when I got to tio's house the keys Begoña had given me were the wrong ones and he could not hear me calling from the ringer downstairs, so I called my cousin and took a taxi to her house to get the keys she had for the apartment. Taxied back to his house. It´s 3 to 4am, mind you. Went straight to bed for we had some traveling to do tomorrow.
Thursday the 26th of June:
My suitcase packed and out the door to their hotel by bus. We had breakfast at their hotel and off we went to Cordoba. It was such a fun ride, and that Marta is not a good driver, all over the damn road, geeeze... but we stopped by the roadside when Inga spotted a town on top of a hill and she wanted to photograph it. It was perched way up there and for us to get a good shot we left Marta in the car and walked down the road to a better spot for pictures. Took several and then I saw some ostriches. They were behind a fence so I went up to them to take a better look and take a couple of pics. One was standing and watching us, the other one was sitting nearby. Their faces are comically beautiful, how can I say that? So I put the camera up to the fence and suddenly he or she flung that long-ass neck with that little head on top and got me!! Grabbed my pinky and at the same time pushed the camera out of my hands. I pulled quickly and got my pinky out and caught the camera up in the air. I was yelling at it, "you fucker, you stupid-ass ostrich, what the hell's the matter with you!!!" and Inga could not contain her laughter. Later in the car, still laughing she said how she was such a bad friend for laughing and not making sure I was ok. I could not stop laughing either, said I was alright, but my camera lens had a dent in it!! Damn!! Had to be there.
We got to Cordoba. Now, this is a whirlwind tour for sure, this trying to get a little bit of Spain shown to Inga by Marta. I am just along for the ride. We walked to a restaurant and it was blazing hot today!! We had a series of tapas that were outstanding! Then went over to the Mezquita which means mosque in Spanish. It started out as a church a century and a half ago and when the Moors came they redesigned the interior and turned it into a mosque. Then during the reconquest the church got it back, but left the Muslim architecture and now houses chapels within it, but with the Arab influence. It is so amazing. The artistry of centuries past are still preserved and I am in awe. I touch walls, columns, close my eyes and feel the energy of centuries of life within these walls. It is quite the sight.
Zipped through it, got back to our car and headed south again. We went to the town of Chipiona, a place that Marta knew. Inga had wanted to see the southern coast of Spain and Marta chose this place which was elegant and fun. Ran to the beach for we wanted to see a sunset over the ocean. Damn, the sun had just gone past the horizon, but those colors were still there for us. Aaaah!!
We walked around and found an outdoor cafe to eat dinner at. The amound of food ordered was huge!! Lots of seafood, oh yeah!! Now to sleep.
Friday, 27th of June:
Well, why the hell not!! Let's go to Morocco!! We went to Tarifa and jumped onto a ferry to Tangiers. We were leaving Spain and you could see both the Spanish coast and Morocco's on opposite sides of the boat. I mentioned to Inga, "Inga, we're going to Africa!!" and she looked at me with wondering eyes, "Africa? Oh my god, I had no idea!!" Ahh someone flunked geography. We got there and were swamped by "tour guides". Marta made a deal with one and he took us all over the place. Went to a mosque and it was prayer time. The men were going into it through very ornate doors at the front of the mosque and the women were at the back going through a very common door. Hmmm, yeah, some differences are obvious. We got a quick look at the palace and was told to make a quick photo and not get caught doing it. Hmmm, yeah.
He took us to some cliffs overlooking the old town and that was amazing. You could see the ocean way below and the roofs of the homes as well. And these cliffs had holes cut out where the Phoenicians would lay their dead.
We walked the Medina and that was quite crazy, a maze of "streets" maybe 3 to 8 feet wide that just went around and around, with open doorways and people standing around, or selling their wares. Some of the doors were so beautiful. We were shown a window where the body of a dead person was laying on a stone and covered with an ornate cloth. Went to eat to a place where we ordered local food and when we had terrible service and glass in my soup, Marta called the shots and said "No way, we are staying there" and left. The owner was cool about it. We ended up eating in a hole in the wall, everyday food (fish and chips type of food)and we were a bit disappointed with that experience. He took us to a rug store where he obviously gets a kick-back and the presentation was getting long and none of us were buying anything anyway. Then to some small shops where we got swarmed by sellers with all kinds of things hanging from their arms and hands. It was very tough to say no, and I did buy a few things, but it felt really rushed and frantic. Not a good experience overall, especially in such a short time, but hey, the fun side? We were in fuckin' Africa!! Inga, we are in Africa together!!! I took a picture of my foot on African soil. Errr, cement.
Took the ferry back and we ended up eating in a wonderful restaurant, very posh. Hippies were selling their handmade items which were very cute and we bought some. We finally found a pension after driving all over the place looking for a place to sleep. We found one at 1:30am. UGH
Saturday, 28th of June:
We were up by 4am and drove back to Madrid. It was difficult long ride for we were all tired and had to make sure Marta would not fall asleep at the wheel. I remember Inga and I in a gas station bathroom, and I said, "Inga, we're shitting in Spain together!!" We were a bit tired for real, hahahaha. W
We got to the airport, said our goodbyes and I headed back to tio's house. I slept a little, showered and went to the hospital to see my cousin Cristina who had her twins yesterday. All is well, and they are adorable. I helped her with breastfeeding... imagine a c-sec and twins. But of course we know there is an answer to every complication. I went to the room next door when I could hear that baby crying for so long, unconsolable!! As a midwife, I cannot stand that, a baby crying out for help. I excused myself and offered to help. I sat the woman down and put the baby to her breast and the baby took it immediately. She had been told the baby had already eaten and that was not the problem....grrrr. We talked for a while and she understood the feed on demand idea and hopefully all is well. I just could not help it. Cristina's husband, Marcos and I headed to a bar and ate so many mariscos, shellfish. It was soo good, but so expensive.
Then home (to tio Salvador's) to the puter and repacked. Time to head back.
This is the second time I had to leave the Via and it is not feeling good. Breaking it up like this affects that rhythm I had evolved and also I would have to meet all new people again.

June 24 - Villanueva del Campean to Zamora

2008-06-28T17:17:00.000-07:00

So the lady tells me not to walk today. The camino is flooded and it is not a good idea. That she was to tell me (by whom?) to go to the next stage by bus (Zamora). I thought about it, really I am not worried about the trail being bad, although it means I will have wet, muddy feet all day, which means the possibility of blisters.... OK. ugh. So she takes me to the bus stop. There I meet another woman who tells me of the trees that had been blown down last night, and of the many homes that got water in them. So it's me and many elderly people going to Zamora. They are going for doctor appointments, food shopping and meeting friends. Conversations were typical of that age. We stopped in many small quiet towns, now inhabited only by old folks, criss-crossing the land. The water had damaged many areas. People are worried about their crops. Ruined!! "Me cago en la puta de oro, maja!" I heard a man say and giggled.

Basi (for Basilia) gave me directions to old town (in major cities or towns the albergues are usually found in the old sections, for they tend to be close to churches or cathedrals). I walked to a bar to eat breakfast and got something I said I would avoid... chocolate con churros!! What with the air heavy with moisture, the temperatures dropping a bit, it seemed like the perfect food.

I arrived at the beautiful new albergue. Everything brand new. And it accomodates many many people. They will be ready for 2010, the Holy Year. The view from my room was incredible, overlooking the valley, across the way a church with many storks nesting, they and their babies clacking. Salvador and I had seen them when they had just hatched back in early May and now they were learning to talk, and fly. I love watching them. Now, listen to them talk:

I took my shower and with the large mirror I realized how tanned I have gotten!! WOW.

I went to the library (free internet). My forum friend is one day behind me, at least I thought. More tomorrow.
At the library there was a photography exhibition by someone named Alfonso that was so powerful I had to see it all.

I toured the streets, the cathedral, the park the castle. Today is San Juan and San Pedro is June 29.

San Pedro is the patron saint of Zamora, which is pretty neat...see, my last name means San Pedro (St Peter) and here I am for the festivities.

I watched the parade of regional costumes, so colorful, beautiful, worn by men, women and children of all ages. They walked several blocks to end up at the cathedral for a special mass.

I saw a dance exhibit by girls that was being televised. Cute cute little girls as well as teenagers dancing in beautiful style.

There were 2 concerts tonight. I missed the one by the cathedral, by some famous Spanish band, but I did get to watch a concert by an orchestra called TirriTarra at the Plaza Mayor. Think of Yanni meets Enya meets Kitaro. Wonderful, and free.

One is given a key to the albergue so I can come and go as desired. That was very freeing, for usually one has to abide by a curfew. Not here, and thankfully not now, since it would have been sad to miss out on the spectacles.

And who wouldn't want to take in all that is offered in such a beautiful city as Zamora?

Well, it is time to leave the Via (for now). Turns out my friend Inga, from Tallahassee and her Peruvian/German friend are coming to Spain and want to meet up with me. Originally Inga thought she might join me for a few days on the walk but plans changed and instead they will be in Madrid tomorrow. So I leave for a few days.
Next morning I got on the net and it turns out my forum friend and I were sleeping in the same albergue together and did not meet or even know it, until my roommate, the German girl told him I was there!! Too funny! Will we ever meet? Stay tuned.

June 23 - El Cubo de Tierra del Vino to Villanueva del Campean

2008-06-28T17:14:00.000-07:00

A cool front must have come through and that one day rest was perfect for my leg and hip. No regrets, taking a bus..... I would have preferred not to, but one is not supposed to stay more than one night in an albergue unless real sick and I was not sick, but it would have been bad to walk in that condition. So many pilgrims end up in very bad shape as a result of pushing themselves. Learning one´s limits is important.

I was very aware of the place one has to look for arrows, and in this somewhat barren land they are on a variety of places. I walked along the RR tracks for quite some time and the path took a left turn all along a dirt trail. And there is the fork in the road. Intuitively I would take the right fork since that would be pointing north, but I decided to look for the arrow and there it was down in a ditch. Someone made sure to put them so that they could be found. I seem to be more alert looking for arrows when alone. Earlier when walking with Salvador, many time he would say, ¨Mom, this way¨ for I just missed them!
It was such a pleasant walk today, thanks to the weather and the landscape, which again brownish, it still had areas of trees that would feel like a little oasis.

Gentle hills, as I approached my village today, and far off I could see a man taking a stroll. As I approached him, I could see he was very old, and for sure he wanted to chat. So we did. He would call me ¨Maja¨ which means beautiful/good-looking, but in an endearing sort of way the Spanish have of calling people by an adjective/noun (linda, bella, gorda, negra, corazon, maja) and proceed to tell me sooo many things. That is one of the nice perks of walking alone.... I get to stop when I want and chat. I think I would feel less inclined to do so, if walking with someone, for it is easy to just say hello to passers-by while continuing a chat with my companion. He asked me to stay here tonight for it is a lovely lovely village.

So I decided to stay in this town, for it is full of wonderful people and there is a convent in ruins I want to explore. I wondered through the town whose streets were like a maze until I found the lady with the key. I went to the albergue and it was very very nice. Very new. Little reception area with a table and sink and microwave, then the room with maybe 8 bunks, then straight ahead 2 bathrooms. All new. I settled in, took my shower, washed my clothes, hung them up and went looking for food. I went to the bar and the food was soooo good and plenty of it! They called it arroz Cubano, which is funny, because at home we consider this a Spanish dish, and one I grew up with. Rice with fried eggs on top. The only difference and which I assume makes it Cuban, is the tomato sauce around the edge of the plate. Men came streaming in, apparently it is card playing time. Several of them around the table started their game, and it got quite passionate. Some cuss words were being tossed around, and some of the men would hush the one saying it, for there was a lady in their presence. Too cute. Several of them would come by my table to chat and to apologize for the others. My "maja" friend came in too and I had a wonderful time with him again.

I went for a walk through the town and up the hill to the convent. It mush have been beautiful at one time, for it still was to me. There was litter from some religious person who keeps putting pieces of paper from a calendar of religious thoughts under rocks. Here they were strewn about along with booklets from a Christian organization.

I decided to clean up the litter from these beautiful ruins and went back into town with a bagful. I took many photos. I tried to piece together what each area of these ruins must have been, and one of my faves was the round building with all these little cubby holes.

It was very peaceful here. And it was all mine today.
Once back in town I sat in their Plaza Mayor and drank delicious sweet clean water from their fountain. I called my son Diego back in the states while sitting on the park bench and it made me feel good to hear his voice. A man in a car arrived with many empty plastic bottles and proceeded to fill them up at the fountain. Yeah there is something good about their water. The men moved to the park. How is it that they need to outshout each other when having conversations? But this they do and I jsut smile. My "maja" friend came over again and I learned his name is Diego. Smile. So I was the only one here tonight. No problem. I read the pilgrim book and there was John's message. So cool.

I got my clothes and repacked my rucksack for tomorrow and went to bed. Ha!! Apparently the storm of the decade decided to hit tonight. The lightning and thunder was wonderful, I just love thunder, and it was rocking the place! Then I started to feel water on my hand the one at the head of the bed. Lights on, and yep, there are several leaks all along the edge of the wall, thereby hitting the head of all the beds that are pushed up against it. So I got up and pulled them all towards the center of the room. Back to bed. Then the other wall across from mine was leaking, I could hear the sound of it, so now I put all those beds in the center. Back to bed. Now my foot is getting wet, and it seems the skylight in the center of the room is leaking. Now I move all the beds again to keep them from getting wet and found a bucket. The sound of water hitting it reminded me of the Chinese Water Torture so I put a towel I found inthe bucket to stop that sound. Back to bed. The rain is pounding. The lightning makes the electricity go off and on. And.... what happens each time it flickers off? The emergency exit lights come on. Imagine being inthe dark and suddenly a spotlight is shining in your face? Yeah, all night, on and off. I got up. I just could not sleep anymore and went to the door. Water is coming in through the bottom of the door. So when I open the top half of the door to peek outside, I could make out, in total darkness, that the street (maybe all of 12 feet wide) was now a river. Yep. We are getting flooded here tonight. I moved several items from the floor of the entrance up high so they would not get wet.

After hours of this and when the electricity finally stayed on, I fell asleep from sheer tiredness. And maybe an hour later? Someone at the front door, pounding. The lady has come to see how I faired. Then I realized I had been bitten, several times, but not bedbugs, for they bite in rows, these were mosquitos. Good morning!!
Total 13 kms

June 22 - Calzada de Valunciel to El Cubo de Tierra del Vino

2008-06-28T17:13:00.000-07:00

I had a great sleep last night. I think those couple of days in Salamanca was about partying, so got little rest. I cooked breakfast, cleaned up, watered the plants and realized how hot it already was. I do not mind hot that much, really, but was eager to get going. I dropped the key into the locked keybox outside after securing the windows and doors and did not get very far when I realized that the hip pain was already making me limp. Not a good idea, not after what happened several weeks ago. I went back to the albergue and sat down on the outside bench and thought about it a while. Maria, who it turns out is the albergue´s caretaker came by, we chatted and I asked her about bus service out of this town and she directed me back to the main road. I decided I had to move on, but should rest the leg. I took the bus to El Cubo de Tierra del Vino, what a crazy name, and come to think of it most of these towns´names have multiple words! And another thing that convinced me was that there was nothing between these two towns. The guide recommends to take enough water, for there are 20 kms between them. 20kms is not too far, and for me actually, it is a perfect distance. But what if I get into trouble out there and I am far from a road, and there have been no pilgrims this day. So, as hard as it is to make this decision, I got on that bus. I arrived in El Cubo and after asking directions got to the albergue. I wondered if I would be the only one there tonight.... just me and that dog that lies on the front stoop, who as I petted....YIKES, it is full of ticks!! I killed a couple of the ones that walked off his coat. Then, I got cave mates. 3 Spanish men here tonight. I went into town and they had one of those coin operated computers and I checked my emails and wrote a couple. I have a forum mate who is also walking the Via and we had previously written to each other stating we might be able to meet up? Well one of the emails is from him saying he was in Salamanca for a couple of days and I bet we were there together! We are mentioning the possibility that we are near enough that we might meet up. We'll see.
The bar was full of people drinking and smoking and discussing tonight´s game, Spain vs Italy. The albergue is very nice, great rooms, bathroom, dining-living area and a nice porch out back where I could wash my clothes and hang them while I took some sun...it had a kitchen and I cooked again after visiting the town´s only open shop (on a Sunday? Unheard of!!) whose owner said she opened only because of people needing things for tonight´s game. I had a room to myself and the Spanish guys took the other 2 rooms, one of them wedging a chair behind his bedroom door for some reason.
20 kms I missed.

June 21 - Salamanca to Calzada de Valunciel

2008-06-28T17:12:00.000-07:00

Conrado dropped me off on the north side of Salamanca while on his way to work. . I got to Aldeaseca and it was a very quiet little town. Nothing was open for food or drink. So I moved on. Made it to Castellanos de Villiquera, where I was ready for some food. I went into a bar, put down my backpack and heard a man order a bocadillo and a beer. When I heard the owner say 1.50euros, I perked up. First time I had seen anything so cheap, which made me wonder about some of the prices I pay.
Most places do not have prices and once in there, I just pay what they tell me the price is. But this guy was a local and he got charged so little. So I said I wanted the same thing as he. And I paid 1.50euros. It was the best tortilla sandwich and beer I had for the price!! I walked through the town, which also seemed quiet. Only activity was the bread lady, who zips through town in her little station wagon, beeping a horrid horn as she goes from block to block. The ladies come out to buy their bread. I stopped and looked at the different breads and decided to buy one. One of the shoppers helped put it into one of the pockets of my backpack, so I would not have to take it off and I felt cool walking with a baguette sticking out of my backpack. The bread was yummy. I looked for my arrows.

The walk was very flat, very dusty. This is cereal country, and already, in June, the fields are a golden color. I would have thought it would be very green still. Men in tractors harvesting and plowing. All wave a little hello to me.
I got to Calzada de Valunciel. By the time I arrived my right leg and hip were hurting again, like it did at the beginning of the walk. Not sure why, but I cannot even stretch my legs open. There was a note on the door, asking any pilgrim to call a phone number so that the key could be delivered to me. I was the only person in the albergue.

And it was cute as could be. I went to a little shop and was surprised it was open on a Saturday late afternoon, for typically in Spain, shops close early on Saturday and not at all on Sunday. I got my groceries and headed back to the albergue. I made my dinner. I watered the plants. I fixed every pot, trimming the flowers. I swept the porch. The man who arrived with the key was very kind, and I believe he is the mayor, who is watching over the albergue while the regular lady who cleans it is gone. I read, wrote a little and went to bed early. No one to talk to, so what else to do? I read the pilgrims´notebook and found a message written there from one of my forum members. I have since sent him the picture to show him that I found his note. Hehe....love my camino forum world.
Total 16 Kms.

June 19 - June 20 - Morille to & In Salamanca

2008-06-28T17:11:00.002-07:00

Arturo left first and I took my time. It was another hot day. I walked through many groves, a very rocky path, grooved by water and tires... I came upon a bunch of cattle blocking a gate. One of the things one must watch for is those big black bulls. I already knew of a cyclist who had been chased by one. These were a family of them, a very large family....as in many daddies, mommies and babies. They were smack in the middle of the trail and that gate was right behind them. When I approached, they all turned to look at me and would not move. I would not move either, which put me in that position of what in the hell do I do now? I scoped out the area.... where would I run to... ok trees over there, I think I could make it. Open area there, and trees, but too far and cows and bulls can run fast! I pretended I was going to keep walking but they became very alert and I decided I would wait. I remember the German sisters(Ana & MariSofia) who I had passed at one time, and of course they had asked where I slept last night. They had been concerned of my not arriving in San Pedro. So I waited for them. My idea was that if we walked 3 abreast, we would look larger. I lost time, but I still had not felt safe about these large animals. And of course we walked on through and they all moved to the sides and no big deal! Chicken-shit here.
It got hotter. I had planned on calling Conrado, who we had met weeks earlier and was expecting me to call him so he could show us around Salamanca. Little did he know that now, 3 weeks later, I would be arriving, alone. But my phone was dead. I rested in front of a man's home, under the only tree I had seen for some time. That little section was lined with poppies and other wild flowers, and when under a tree, the breeze seems to blow nicely. I heard Arturo approaching along the way; after chatting a bit of course I again left him behind. We were to meet up in the albergue in Salamanca and have dinner. That never happened and I never saw him again. I came upon a hill overlooking Salamanca, and it had a beautiful and incredible view of the city. The cross was placed up there in such a way as to make one want to stop and just stare into Salamanca.

=============== =============
I went down that hill towards the city and met and chatted with a man who was walking his dogs. He was throwing a stick into a pond and the dogs gladly would go after it and cool off at the same time. He brings them here every week he says. It was soooo hot! So when I walked into a tunnel, decorated with graffiti I stayed there a bit, until that wind chilled me and I was ready to head in to the city.

The cathedral was to the right, but the road leading in went around the city to the left. If it weren't for those arrows I would have bee-lined it to the old town and taken less time. Nevertheless it went through a nice park. I laid down under the trees, for again I needed to cool off.

=======

=======

Walking into the old town was amazing. I had to cross a bridge and the architecture changed, with evidence of ancient buildings all around me. It was so clean, I remember that for some reason. The buildings looked scrubbed-clean. One sees soot settling on and staining them so when I saw these so perfect it caught my attention.

I got to the albergue but it was not open yet, so I sat in a little park next to it. On the way in I had seen some people dressed as knights and ladies in gowns. One of those ladies was sitting in the bench next to me and we chatted. Apparently many businesses play a type of scavenger hunt using period costumes of ancient days, where the employees get to "play" but in essence they are exercising? It was cute. THe albergue opened and the hospitalera was very kind. The place is beautiful. She showed me to my room and soon there were 2 othr women there, including Andrea (the German woman) and a new peregrina, Ana (from Australia). I napped for a bit, took a shower and walked around for a bit, had to see the famous Plaza Mayor which was as magnificent as I had heard it would be.

Then I called Conrado. He told me not to move that he was on his way. A very kind man, he showed me his business, a brand new glass building and then to his home. Later we went with he and his lady friend to dinner.

The restaurant was beautiful, the dinner and wine and conversation fun fun fun. So, I missed my curfew. Dinner in Spain starts late, and when an albergue closes at 10pm, what can a happy peregrina do? Stay out!! So after dinner we went to the albergue, I rang the bell and felt bad about it but no one came so we went to his g/f's home. Elisa is an editor and promoter of children's books and she read us some stories as we drank champagne. Oh what fun!
*************

The next morning they drove me to the albergue and I really did feel bad that they worried about me. Apparently the bell does not work, so all is forgiven. While Conrado went to work I explored the city, had some tapas, beer, Shandy and sweets.

I found the astronaut (with a little help) on the cathedral and I found the frog on the skull (with a little help) at the University's building. This town is busy, many tourists, many students. There was music outside the cathedral and generally people looked sooo happy, laughing, men sitting on benches discussing something or another.... just very lively.

One place I went to, and by coincidence, for I walked by it and read that this building contained Spanish Civil War archives. I went in just hoping there would be something there related to my parents, so after going through security I was taken upstairs where I spoke with a gentleman who took my data and disappeared for a while. I saw the encyclopedias that used to sit on my dad's library shelves, and knew I would find my great-grandfather there, so I photographed his page. Shortly after the man appeared with 3 records of my father, all related to his training for officers. Funny that a man so young as he was a lieutenant in the war. Well, he was a man with a wife and he was only 18 years old. He lied about his age. Still, it was quite moving to see my dad's name there. They will email me with any more information they find on him. The last name was changed, since dad is Catalan and they allow an N before a P, whereas the Castellanos do not allow it so Madrid changed dad's last name to Sampere instead of Sanpere. They did not find any data on mom, who was a nurse during the war.

Loved Salamanca!! Conrado came after work and we went out to dinner with another g/f to a chirichanga or chiringanga or chimichanga or whatever it's called, but basically it is a series of outdoor cafes along the river consisting of the kitchen and bathroom. The rest is all outdoor tables. People of all ages late into the night eating incredible food. What a life!!

June 18 - Fuenterobles de Salvatierra to Morille

2008-06-28T17:11:00.001-07:00

I watched with one eye open and one closed as people left. As always, last to leave. I cannot imagine a bunch of people up at the same time trying to use the bathroom. I feel so much more at ease when I go slow. The regulars, ie (hot guy) Father Blas and the other hospitaleros were still asleep, probably tired from walking all night in the moonlight. Only one was awake, and I saw him in the checking-in room working with his leather, making the necessary gear for the donkeys. It is a gentle and dedicated work, making sure the animals are well equipped. I said good-bye and walked out. I was quickly in the countryside, very cool morning, but bright and clear. I was out on a prairie, or the Via's version of the Meseta from the Camino Frances, and at one moment I was in the middle of it, just barely making out the snowy hills behind me and those yet to come in front of me, far in both horizons.

It was my intention to walk to Pedrosillo. Arturo wanted to get to San Pedro. The German girls were going there as well. I would walk along and could make out a figure up ahead, resting under a tree. It was Arturo, who walks slow and steady. I walk quicker and catch up with him, we chat and start walking again. He is like the tortoise, slow and steady, I like the hare, quick and tire quicker. I stop and he catches up. We did this for a while. What was fun is walking away from him and I could hear him singing. I would sing quietly the same song as he. Jack the Knife, old Spanish songs my mom used to sing, songs I remember hearing in the '50s from my brothers' turntables. He knew sooo many songs. I would stop and rest and I could then hear him coming. It was reassuring.... I had a companion and he was alright. I finally reached trees and a curious scene... different markers of the Via, a cross and a teepee made from branches. It was the beginning of a little forest, giving respite from the sun. Another cross there, and I remember JohnnieWalker mentioning the series of crosses and knew I was in that scene he had created for me in the email. I enjoy moments like these, where something I had heard about appears on the scene. That was special in my first camino, the Frances. And the one that stands out in my mind was that trek out of Pamplona and up that mountain to the top and there appeared all the iron sculptures I had seen over and over in photos. I cried. So here I was seeing the series of crosses and had one of those sweet moments. I did not cry though. I went inside the teepee and sat a while, wondering who had made it, and how many people had used it possibly? I imagined or possibly I really felt the energy of the place. Very special. I reached (what I thought was...) the top of the hill, to see that cross, that somehow did not seem as special as I had imagined. The view from there was amazing...so high up there and seeing the valleys below, so far below.
Luckily a nice clear day. I sat under some trees, layed out my sarong, took off my shoes, lit some incense and sat there. I heard that singing again and Arturo came. I told him to rest a bit and he likewise took off his shoes. I offered oranges and he accepted. I like these rests. What I really enjoy is that I am not in a rush to get anywhere. No need, really, for the next albergue will be there for me whether I arrive at noon or 6pm. He talked me into going to San Pedro. The girls would be there as well. We walked downhill, winding around those hills, through beautiful country and we came to a gate. The sign seemed unclear to us. It had two arrows pointing straight ahead, one of them straight (to Pedrosillo) with one of them pointing ahead and to the left (to San Pedro). The guide was not clear either of the directions to take. Fast forward... it was wrong. Apparently we were supposed to turn left right there and then through the trees, but it did not make sense for we could not see a clear path. Well, of course we thought we were going in the correct direction. Through some gates we went. I went ahead for a while and when I came to the end of that trail, one had to go either left or right. No sign there. I waited for Arturo and we decided it had to be to the left. We kept walking. I was sooo hot and dehydrated. Ran out of water and just had to stay under what little shade I could find just to cool off a bit. I felt a headache, not a good sign. Definite dehydration. I was sitting in the ditch. The fencing would not allow me to go deeper into the woods, and it was the only spot with shade. I saw the town up ahead and decided to rest a while. Arturo caught up and we went on together. Cute cute town. I walked way ahead and the first bar I saw I went in. It had a lovely courtyard and there were many laborers taking their lunch break. There was even a large pool out back, still closed for the season. I drank and drank until satisfied and sat at a table outside until Arturo showed up. Guess where we are? Pedrosillo!! The woman owner told us this and I jsut laughed. I guess I came to where I had wanted to in the first place! She offered the day's menu... Arturo had pork jaw in some kind of delicious sauce, I had beef tongue in an exquisite tomato based sauce. Veggies, a huge salad,bread, wine and a delicious creamy dessert....10 euros. We sat under that tree, with my toes caressing that soft green grass, the breeze so cooling, and I was happy. Already I had forgotten how dry and tired I had just felt. Renewed!! So where is the albergue? I am home!!
Mari told us not to stay in this town, that the albergue is terrible and that we should move on to Morille. What??? That is another 12 kilometers! I was not convinced... until the two of them did the concincing for me. I never did see the albergue to get a clear picture of it myself, but when she told me there is no warm water for the showers, I felt I could move on. I hate cold water!! That walk to Morille took forever. Only 12 kilometers? For real? I think it was longer. We stayed together this time. Interminable!! Road walking!! Hot hot hot!! At least we had water. My feet hurt, alot! I had to stop frequently to rest. Damn it!! I should have stayed and skipped the shower. Each time we came around the bend.... another bend.... and another. Finally, at 9pm we arrived in Morille. 9PM!!! It was a cute village, with children and their parents playing in the dusty streets. The key was at the bar.... the only place to eat... but not tonight. No food!!!!! Ahhh, I had enough in my pack for the 2 of us. It was a mish-mash dinner of odds and ends but it was dinner. The albergue was tiny, 3 bunk beds, one small bathroom, Donativo. HOT water!! I was sore enough to take some Ibuprofen. First time ever. WOW,that bed felt wonderful! TOTAL 30 Kms.

June 17 - Calzada de Bejar to Fuenterobles de Salvatierra

2008-06-28T17:09:00.000-07:00

I must have slept so soundly I heard nothing! Obviously I was very tired from lack of sleep and a very long day yesterday. The rain helps... everyone likes sleeping with the rain coming down. This morning, no rain. The girls are gone, the cyclists are getting ready, eating breakfast, which I skip. I never eat before I leave. Typically I walk until 10 or 11am and then I eat something light. Andrea left her hat at the albergue and called about it. One of the cyclists would carry it with him and give it to her when he spots her ahead. This kind of thing happens frequently. Many times cyclists will carry items left behind.... usually they're plugged-in electronics, ie phones, battery chargers, and drop them off at albergues ahead, or give them directly to the pilgrim that left it.
It was recommended I walk the road ("just 2 kilometers extra", he said) because everything is quite wet, not just with last night's rain but also with the morning dew... and I am wearing sandals. I opt for the trail... I can handle wet, and I do dislike road walking, right?
When I walk through the trail, which is only 8 inches wide, I do get wet, socks and lower pants legs, but I really do not mind. Although it is quite cold, and windy. The wind blows just right into my ears making that noise that sounds like a storm.... how annoying. I wrap my head with my sarong so that my ears are covered and I don't hear it as much. Oh Yeah, I can see it snowed last night!! WOW! The mountaintops are white.
Now walking on a dirt road, along pastures full of black bulls, I can hear singing. The wind carries the voices. I turn around and in the distance are the 2 cyclist brothers. They catch up to me and stop and we chat a bit. One of them wears an MP3, looks for a song, and as they drive off, they start singing "America", some Spanish song, and each time the word America was sung, their arms would fly up in the air. It was a special touch, lovely men. (smiles) So my first challenge of the day.... my guide says it's a dry river bed...well it's not dry at all. The water is moving swiftly and it is deep. Stones are placed for us to walk, but my legs cannot reach one of them, which happens to be very pointy and I know I will fall in if I try to jump onto it. So I take off my backpack and my sandals and socks. I throw the socks across first, fine, then the first sandal I throw hits a tree but makes it fine, but the second sandal taught me I am not a good thrower.... yeah, threw it right into the river, and there it goes! The water is taking it! Luckily some weeds on the side caught it, so I did not have to go far to retrieve it. The idea that I could lose my shoes,,,,, well, you see, they are the only ones I have. Phew!! After that wonderful throw I decided not to try to throw my backpack. I put it back on and with the help of my walking sticks, I walk over the stones and make it across. The water by the way was freezing! So glad I did not fall in!

What a crazy day. This is one of those, you had to be there moments, to understand why I would say, "No one would believe what I just did and went through". I was strolling along, just fine, when I came to an odd waymarker. What was odd was that there was one arrow pointing to the right, but it had been painted over, although you could still see clearly it was there, and there were 2 arrows pointing to the left. My guide said the trail went to the right. But I was sure it had something to do with the trail having changed.

Two roads diverged in a wood, and I--

I took the one less traveled by,

And that has made all the difference.

- Robert Frost (1874 - 1963), The Road Not Taken

Well, I do like an adventure or a challenge, so yeah, I went to the right. I could see footprints, so someone else must have gone this way. The road went between 2 stone walls, you know the kind.... they are all over....miles and miles of 3 to 4 feet high stacked stone walls? The trail was nice, with trees providing shade. You could tell it is not transited much, for the grass was a bit high. A puddle here and there, ohhhh, hmmm water. Well, maybe I could step right on the edges against the wall, holding onto branches, yeah, I can keep going. Oh boy, water is now to the edges. I can possibly stand on top of the wall on the left side, and hold onto the barbed wire fencing for stability and walk along it. Let me try. Oh shit! These stones are rocking, and I would really hate to fall and have these barbs stuck in me and I would be found weeks later all dried up hanging from the fence. Ewwww I climb back down, and now go to the right side. I could go back I guess, but I have come so far, and I can tell eventually the road goes up that hill, which means there will be no more water, so I'll just keep going. To the right side I go. I can see that over on the other side of the wall it is all grassy. The bulls are pretty far away, so I can just hop over and walk along the wall until the water is behind me. Yeah good idea. So I take off my backpack, put it on the wall, and I carefully go to the top of the wall, which is wobbling like hell, and jump onto the pasture, except that my feet have sunk to my ankles. It was so wet here, but I could not tell because of the overgrown grass, and here I am sunk into the grass. Well, at this point I am just going to go on. Ohhh, that's poop I just stepped onto!!! Shit!!Damn!! Plodding along, I occasionally peek back over the wall wondering when the water is going to end and I can go back on my trail, and get away from all this poop and those cows and bulls that are a bit too close now. Well, the wall now goes to the right and I have to keep going straight, which means I have to get back over the wall to the trail again. Of course I keep thinking that I know now why my arrow was painted over and there were not one but two arrows telling me to go left! (remembering of course that I like adventures) So the wall now is much much higher, as tall as me, and if I try to jump back over (and land in knee deep water which is brown) I could twist my ankle on who knows what, so I take off my backpack again and carefully climb back to the top and sit there, and now what! I am afraid to jump, I cannot place my feet onto any stones! Well, I pray for forgiveness to whomever built this magnificent wall and push two of the top stones into the water and use them to step onto while holding onto a couple of branches. So now I am knee deep in the water, and I cannot lift these rocks to place them back. Sorry. I pull my backpack down off the wall, put it on, and start walking through the water which is filled with high grass. It is very dense now, and my arms are scratched through my sleeves and bleeding from the thorns of the bushes. My hands have thorns stuck in them. My backpack and my sarong get snagged. I slosh through the water for over a half hour and I can see I am going uphill now, and yes, the water is more shallow and finally, dry. My socks are not muddy or shitty anymore (thinking of the bright side). I meander between the walls a little longer and finally open fields! I made it, and I can see my trail again. I walk through a field of beautiful yellow, blue, purple, orange and red flowers and I am almost giggling I was so happy. Happy, not because I knew I was in a safe place, or that I made it, but that I actually did it, I did not quit, I did not go back! That was the trail that pilgrims took once upon a time and I walked the same one as they. And I did not take one photo of this. I was just so busy trying to get through it.
On the trail now walking and I heard airplanes, not typical ones, but loud ones, fast ones. I looked up and there were what I assume were Spanish Air Force jets doing maneuvers. Zipping through the air. I looked down and my feet had what must have been a hundred little blue butterflies. I thought, "what contrast". Above and below...War and Peace. As I walked along, with each step, the butterflies were flying off the ground and I was accompanied by them for quite a while. Thousands of them! It was such a pleasant moment.
I took off my socks and pinned the wet dirty things to my backpack and went on. I walked into a small village and decided I better eat something, for who knows when I will eat again. As if I was starving!! Not! And there was Andrea, with her hat. We sat together and she told me it was nuts of me to have gone the way I did, but how was it? Ohh, you have no idea what you missed, Andrea. Her German guide also said the trail went to the right and she did at first, so it was her footprints I had seen. But come to think of it, at one point I saw none (before the water). She had turned back and what had taken me two hours took her half an hour. She left for she had been there a long time already, and I stayed there and ate alone. Feeling rested, I went on.

I had a cell phone so that I can talk to Salvador or be reached by family, and I had it in my hand waiting for 1:37pm to come. See, today is my son Leon's birthday and since I cannot call the States, I will video myself singing happy birthday to him at the exact time of his birth. It's a tradition of ours. I usually call them and tell them their birth story. I found a lovely spot, a large but flat stone where I can sit, take some sun, and wait for the moment. I spread my sarong on the rock, I got my camera ready, pointed it at myself, and when the phone said 1337 I sang happy birthday to him, then I did a 360 degree taping of the area so he can see where I was. Of course it would be a long time before he can see it. So I did and then, knowing no one could be walking behind me, I took my clothes off and laid on that rock. Sunned my belly for the first time since my (colon) cancer surgery. I honored my body. It had pushed little Leon out 20 years ago. I loved this moment I had there, somewhere in Spain, naked on a rock. hahahaha.
Then I heard footsteps! I wrapped my body with my (multi-purpose) sarong and looked around, saw no one, but now I heard more sounds and I see it, I mean I see them, cows, many cows, walking alone to a grassy area to eat. I layed back down. Then I was happy enough, errr, hot enough, and left.
I reach Fuenterobles de Salvatierra and head to the albergue. A young woman skips out the door, welcomes me and asks me if I want to eat with them. Since I had only had a snack a few hours ago, I said yes, walked into the dining area and around a large table were several people finishing their lunch. The girl, a German who was hospitalera for a month, brought me delicious food (first and only time I saw broccoli) and we all chatted awhile. A very handsome man across from me wanted to know a lot about me and where I was from etc. No ring on his finger, I noticed. (smiles, I mean laughs). A couple of hours later I find out the hot looking guy is a priest, Father Blas. Aha! OK. He shows me around, the albergue he has been slowly expanding, the donkey carts from his Romerias. This is a place with good energy. He is doing a pilgrimage this August along the Camino del Norte. Next year his big pilgrimage will be along the Road Francigena to Rome. He expects the pope will meet with them. Would I be interested? I had a very pleasant time there. My 3 German friends and I made plans to eat dinner at the bar. Then Arturo, whom I had met a couple of days earlier shows up and we all went together but had a lousy lousy dinner. The worst on my journey.
Clearly the bar owner convinced us that the menu with many many choices was not as good as what she was offering to make for us. Grrrr, and expensive, 10 euros. The garlic soup tasted like oil, with no hint of garlic, not even bread in it. The protein was 2 fried eggs. Fried potatoes. Wine we did not like to drink...it was a bit ummmmm..... rustic. Not happy pilgrims that night. I learned I should not be swayed like that again. But who knew?
Father Blas was doing a 35km walk through the full moon night and asked me if I wanted to go along. AHHHH, NO!! Like I want to walk 35 kilometers more, and not sleep. But it sounded like it would be a great time. I slept next to Arturo who cried loudly in his sleep for about 5 minutes, a very sad type of wailing, all of us wondering whether to wake him up or not. He finally stopped; I slept. What a day! We have a lovely full moon night.
Total 20.5 KILOMETERS (plus a little extra time being adventurous)

June 16 - Baños de Montemayor to Calzada de Bejar

2008-06-28T17:05:00.000-07:00

"In a world where people are attuned to being directed by signs everywhere, how do you explain that the yellow arrows are not a municipal "regulation' but rather an invitation to faith - they are always there, especially when you need them the most, whispering ‘this way’, ‘follow me’, ‘trust me’. It is virtually impossible to convey to others that the Camino is, in so many ways, a metaphor for life" M.Leahy.
So.... I am so excited!! After these 3 weeks waiting until I felt sure I could walk again, I am!! Last night after repacking again (I had to restock, since I gave Salvador what he needed for his walk) and double checking (I am sure other pilgrims know what I am talking about, eh?) I could not sleep. Tossing and turning, listening to music, reading (I finished Eat, Pray, Love, and I strongly recommend it)the end of my book, I finally fell asleep and slept 2 hours. I got early to the metro station, I am not missing my bus back! It was a nice bus ride, watching the scenery change from city, to flatlands, dry and brown, to mountains, wet and green.
Immediately after getting off the bus, I went to the Ayuntamiento (city hall) and got my credencial stamped. I had not gotten it stamped when I walked to Baños de Montemayor 3 weeks ago, so I did, and when I walked out I met my first pilgrim. Arturo, who I would meet again and again. He was to rest here for a bite but I was eager to get walking.
When I left 3 weeks ago, the bus ride out of Baños was crazy, switchbacking back and forth several times until we made it over the mountain. I was really hoping I would not have to do that much walking, and sure enough the path would take me straight up and over. It was an old Roman road, stones to help get good footing, as it was sprinkling on and off and without then it would have been messy and slippery. I stopped several times to take pictures and admire the view, Baños appearing lower and lower until I went over the mountain. I used my little umbrella for a while. I walked under a bridge that had a nice layout of the Via. The wildflowers were beautiful and plentiful. It was a quiet road, and being alone was wonderful. I found a wall where I could sit and eat and stare into the valleys below, towns so far away it felt like this mountain was all mine for the moment. My legs dangled over the wall and I ate a bocadillo of ham that my uncle had sliced from that whole pig leg he has sitting on his kitchen counter. Several cherries and I was good to go. It was warm again, so off with the fleece, but then it got cooler again. It did that back and forth until it sprinkled again, then it just felt cold. There are different way markers that I have not learned about, with odd markings, I wondered if I could find info about them somewhere.
I crossed the Malena bridge, an old Roman bridge that is well known, and below the river was rushing, as it had rained quite a bit lately. I loved the sound of it and stayed for a bit.
The sprinkling was constant now, so used my left hand for the umbrella and the right with my walking stick, for there were some areas where it came in very handy. There was a very stony path that went uphill and once over I walked on the path that paralleled a paved road. Suddenly it poured. I am talking, skies opened up and buckefulls came down. My poncho was in the backpack and I struggled trying to stay under the umbrella, protect my backpack and get the poncho and put it on. I was soaked as soaked as I could be, and luckily the inside of the backpack was not too wet. I do put my other change of clothes in a ziplock bag.
I walked through Puerto de Bejar, but my destination was Calzada de Bejar, where I had heard there was a wonderful albergue on the entrance to the village. The hospitalero and a German woman were there waiting for me and asked me if I had seen other pilgrims. Other than Arturo, no one else. He did not arrive there, probably stayed in Puerto de Bejar since the rain was so heavy.

The place was warm and welcoming. He lit a fire so that we could dry our things. Clothes, backpacks, boots were all lined up there. We were one Austrian woman, 2 German sisters (first young people I had seen), 2 Spanish brothers on bikes and me. The hospitalera encouraged me to eat her meal, and even though I had food for tonight I decided to join them and glad I did. The hot garlic soup warmed me right up.
Although the skies were heavy with rain clouds it stopped long enough to go outside a and check out the horse that was looking for attention. And she got it. One of the guys was already there and fed her some grass. I too pulled some for her and she gladly ate it from me, enveloping my whole hand with her soft lips, as her teeth pulled on the grass. We took some pictures and she did not want us to leave her, walking along the fence until it ended. I felt so much love. I walked back in and as I closed the door I was gifted with a complete rainbow.

I would sleep good tonight.
Although it felt much longer.... TOTAL: 13Km

May 26 - In Madrid

2008-06-15T09:30:00.001-07:00

We arrived in Madrid and explained to everyone what had happened and with open arms we were welcomed back. Now here, I settled in, I have my own room and Salvador his as well, and decided all I could do is take it a little at a time. I looked for things for Salvador to do and found there was a HipHop festival next weekend and we bought tickets. Salvador went with his cousin and his friends. A 2 day festival, he had a great time. Super great!
As the days went by, I told Salvador, "this is what life is going to be like for a while", meaning, in the house, sitting around, doing nothing much. He told me he decided to walk again, except that this time he wanted to do the Camino Frances, the one I walked last year. He had heard me and others talk about what it is like there. More villages, more people, more people his age..... so off he went. He calls me every 2 days to tell me where he is, who with, what he´s eating, etc. I think it was the best decision. He is liking it a lot. Has met many people and is now with a little group, 2 English girls, a German guy, and others from other countries that join every so often. They are taking turns cooking, they are making decisions together, in other words, it is a good thing.
Me?
Well, I cook for my uncle twice a day. He told me yesterday that he is going to be lonely after I leave since he is getting used to the company. Awww. I told his daughters, they will make sure he is ok.
I take Ron out for a walk every day, sometimes twice a day. And play with him. I think of Shiloh, my doggy.
I have blogged all this finally, and am caught up. Better than last year´s blogging I believe. I read my book, Eat, Pray, Love. I recommend it.
I rested. Just what my ankle needed, I did go to the hospital and was declined medical care. I went to a private doctor and he sent me for an ultrasound, why I am not sure, for all they can see is that yes, you do have swelling (duh) and RICE it. I told ya!
And waited. Very patiently. It will be 3 weeks tomorrow, June 16 and I am leaving. YEP!! Going back to the Via. Tomorrow. I am taking a bus and starting in Baños de Montemayor, the town I had last walked to.
Cristina, my cousin, has not had her babies yet, and I promised her I would return to help her.
Inga, my friend, is coming from Tallahassee and we will meet up on the 25th of June to explore Cadiz.

So it looks like I will be walking the Via in bits and pieces. But, that is my compromise. The important thing is that I can walk again, my son is walking and we are each doing our own Camino.
Love to you all, and I will be blogging again when I can.
HASTA LA VIA, BABY!!

May 26 - Aldeanueva del Camino to Baños de Montemayor

2008-06-11T17:42:00.003-07:00

Very cloudy, cold, humid and windy. We started walking and again, on the road. That little pain I had last night is present, just a little nagging hot spot in that ankle.

Extremadura is known for its cherries according to my uncle; even the Japanese come here to see the trees in bloom and want to take the flavor of Spain back to Japan. Well there they were, trees full of cherries. Passed a few and when I had to pee, I saw one tree right by the road and it had one, just one little cherry hanging there. The sign said ok, you can pick, we are all done. How can that be? I can see many many trees full of cherries. So I picked it. Really, it had to be the best tasting cherry I have ever had in my life! A moment of pure pleasure. As we moved on I could see pits all along the road, as I assume, pilgrims earlier that morning must have picked all they could. Wish I could have had more.

I notice the pain in my ankle more now and it is starting to feel very familiar. I cannot describe pain, of course, since it is so subjective, like telling someone what an orgasm feels like or what a sneeze feels like, but it reminds me of something we used to do to each other as kids..... the Chinese arm burn. Per Wikipedia: "The victim's forearm is grasped firmly in both hands, then the hands are twisted in opposite directions around the victim's arm, causing friction burns". Yeah, well that burn? That is what it feels like inside my ankle. Last year when I walked the Camino Frances I got the same kind of pain in another location of my other ankle, same foot though. A tiny spot, but it can be so delibitating. I cannot friggin´ believe it!! All along this trip it has been my other leg/hip that has been causing me grief. I wonder if all that limping caused me to put more pressure on this foot and this is a consequence of that. I had to stop more frequently now as it was burning quite a bit.

I barely made it into Baños de Montemayor. I asked about a doctor and was directed to the Thermal Baths building. This town is famous for its thermal baths, hence its name. Busloads of people arrive all day to partake in these healing baths. OK, sounds like the right spot to start getting some help. I was turned away, due to it being private doctors there. On the other hand, due to my experience last year, I know exactly what I will be told to do. RICE: Rest, Ice, Compression, Elevation; and take anti-inflamatories (Ibuprofen).

Salvador and I discussed my options and I knew, OH, I knew what I was to do. Such a difficult decision to stop walking, to go back to Madrid, to wait it out. Which is exactly what I really have to do. Words cannot express my disappointment. This walking, this journey, camino, is something I came to do, to share with my son, and I have gone through so much pain already, how can this stop me??? But I knew.
I gave Salvador the option to go on without me or go back to Madrid: He chose to go back with me. TOTAL 10,5 KILOMETERS

May 25 - Jarilla to Aldeanueva del Camino

2008-06-11T17:42:00.001-07:00

We left the hostal this morning and the clouds hung low. We had an occasional drizzle for a while. The ground was very wet. We followed the road leaving the hostal until it met back up with the Via. It follows alongside the road on a very narrow grassy path. It was difficult maneuvering around puddles, for there seemed nowhere else to go. There were some rocks strategically placed, but alas, my foot sunk into the mud, for the rocks had been pushed deeper into the earth by the weight of so many of us. Eventually both feet were in the mud. I wear sandals and socks only on this Camino and they have been wonderful. Salvador has been using his trail shoes and now they are wet as well.

We came across what seemed to be a horse nursery. So many mamas and their babies together, nursing, resting. They were adorable.
Ahh!! A river. Can´t go over it, can´t go under it, can´t go around it, guess we´ll go through it. The water was sooooo cold! But I did get out of my socks. And washed the mud off them. It started to rain and we decided to stay under the bridge and eat there and wait for the rain to stop. Nice little rest and my feet refreshed. The decision of which marker to use was confusing. When on the othr side there was a marker that took us to the left onto a small road. The one on the right side took us towards a grassy estate which was fenced in and the gate was locked and it said Privado. But I could tell that someone had gone through the gate and that the grass was trampled on making a path. Not sure of that to do, I let Salvador make the decision. He decided to follow the other marker and it took us onto a road. After a while it veered off into the countryside and I could tell then where the first trail met up with this one. I would have preferred that one, but oh well. Our guide did not mention these two options.

The trail was taking us straight towards the mountain and we could see some villages on it. We kept wondering which it would take us to for we knew there was a climb coming. We decided it was the one on the left, pictured, and as we got closer and closer we could see it was taking us around it. On we went and nope, not around it either, but the trail took us away from it again. Teaser!!! started to rain and we donned our ponchos again, to which I am grateful to have. They cover our backpacks as well as our bodies and are quite long as well. The trail then took us into a large opening and back into a small enough area that we ended up walking into the mud. UGH! Squishy feet, looked for a puddle and washed them off. Out of the woods and onto the road that took us into Aldeanueva del Camino. It was an adventurous walk. We did manage to get lost twice today. Once on the road at the beginning, with no arrows for so long we thought we were on the wrong road. Then we found an information marker that looked like the trail went perpendicular to the road. We took it and it dead-ended at the highway. Back the way we came. I remember calling Ceri who had walked this path just a couple of days earlier to ask her which way does it go, but she did not answer; nevertheless we found our way.
In Aldeanueva we found our albergue. Another donativo place. The room downstairs had Reserved on all the beds so I went upstairs which was much nicer. Salvador and I had our own room. There were electric heaters and a fan which we used to dry our clothes. Downstairs they turned on a kerosene heater and the place smelled of it. Thank god we are not in that room. It poured heavily once in town and the little old lady who takes care of the Camino wanted to show me where to eat and in the pouring rain we went there. She said they would take good care of us.
Salvador and I went and ate lunch there and sure enough the woman, with her big smile showing she has only 3 teeth, wanted to do everything possible to feed us well. We ate delicious food, and when they brought out the wrong plate she told us to eat it as well. She kept coming back to us and smiling would ask if we were happy. I told her we were so happy that I wanted to come back tonight and eat dinner there. She asked me what we wanted to eat. We decided on a soup and salad. "I will make it special for you". We came back later and when we walked through the door it was like we were family. All happy! The bar was full of men watching the bullfights. This is a daily event. Bullfights telivised from many towns across Spain. You can see that this is a ritual of the older generation, for I do not see any young ones here. We eat our dinner and watch the bullfights. Our dinner, 2 sodas, 1 beer and 2 ice cream cones, 10€!! I thanked the woman and kissed her goodbye. Back in our albergue, Manfred was there and we all went to bed. Once in bed I felt a little spot just above my inside left ankle, like right over a vein. The mind and its tricks....could it be a little blood clot? It is so incredibly tender. Ahhh It will be better tomorrow morning. TOTAL:18,5 KILOMETERS plus several more from our little (lost) side trips.

May 24 - Carcaboso to Arco de Caparra (Jarilla)

2008-06-11T17:41:00.001-07:00

Today´s stage is a bit different. The plan is to walk to the famous arch and call the hostal where someone will come, pick us up and take us to it, since it is not on the camino. We will sleep there and tomorrow morning we will take the detour back to the Camino and keep going. We found our yellow arrows and headed out. Finding the arrows is really important, for they can be the only way to navigate yourself throughout the camino. Salvador is my eagle eye. He has called out to me several times where I went right by one and on to a different direction. Without him I would have gotten lost more times that I would have wanted.
Another wonderful walk today. It was all out in the country. That is my favorie part of walking, jsut being away from modern things like asphalt!! The way was grassy, full of trees, many animals. Especially horses right now. Maybe I am just not paying attention to the many pigs and sheep there are. And cows. this one particular horse I fell in love with. His markings and colors are striking. I stopped to talk with him for a little and he got bored and walked away.
The trail is narrow in most places and I try to stay on it. Many times I end up going through the grass,and thanks to my walking stick I do not falter.

We went through another boulder "grove". I wonder why my fascination? Maybe from some past life I lived in caves and played among them.....yeah!!
Today we carried our food. I bought a loaf of bread, and I just love it when I see pilgrims carrying a loaf in their rucksacks, so I had to get a picture of mine. ****
We found a sunny spot, on a rock, because everything else is very very wet, and had our meal. Some Spanish men walked by, we chatted and we will see if we see each other again down the road. The ants found us and we averted them by giving them crumbs which they would carry on their backs to a very far away spot. Once in a while I would say to Salvador, "Salsa, we are somewhere in Spain sitting here and eating, doesn´t it sometimes feel strange that we have this whole life across the ocean?" Really at times I feel like this is my life, which at the moment it is, but it is almost like there is no other life. Strange.
We came to a road and no yellow arrows. It did not seem right to go left or right onto the road so we crossed it and took what looks like the trail We are in Venta Quemada, and in our guidebook it says there is only one house here and the woman is willing to provide water if needed. We did not need any so we went on. And also in the Spanish forum someone said she is tired of pilgrims knocking on her door, since she is a cheesemaker and she cannot leave it at some point or else it will spoil. So I remembered that and just kept on going, allowing providence to guide me. Except that at one point we began to wonder if our sense of direction or intuition was wrong. We had walked way too long and not seen any arrow, any marker, nothing, and so we headed back. To the house in Venta Quemada. Luckily she was outside and I asked her about the camino and said we were on the right one. So back we go. I did take a picture of a sheep skin hanging on her fence. Yeah, wow.
Well we did get lost one other time as we came through a cattle farm.... no more yellow arrows, so we retraced our steps and tried a different way until we found them again. Then it seems we went through a group of homes and the trail opened up and there it was, the famous Arco de Cáparra.
This is the emblem of Extremadura, which by now it seems we have been in it for a very long time. This is the picture seen on the square cement markers that were placed through the camino in Extremadura. To me it was one of those places I had longed to see, a special part of the Via de la Plata. We sat and waited. It started to rain and the wind picked up. I wore my poncho and creeped into it, to avoid the cold, wet wind. A group of French who we had been together with in Casar arrived. We all waited for the drivers to take us to the hostal, which they did and off we went. I had no pains today, my body is adjusting. Thinking back on the hip-leg I started with, it is now gone. YEah
It was nice to be in the hostal and I took a bath in a tub, a little one, but it was warm and soothing. We ate dinner there. And slept. TOTAL 18,5 KILOMETERS PLUS WHAT WE DID WHEN LOST!!

May 23 - Galisteo to Carcaboso

2008-06-11T17:40:00.002-07:00

Because the stages are somewhat long right now, we made a decision, for my sake, to break it up with the information provided in the guide. So today we walked to Carcaboso. It was all road walking again. But it is a small road, meandering through the countryside. The skies are dark with the threat of rain. Everything is green green. Springtime of course but all these rains are making everything lush. Purple irises, wild roses, cattails, other flowers which names I do not know, are in plentitude. Groves of trees, all lined up but making what looks like little forests line the way. Crossing small bridges you can hear the brooks under them, swollen with days of rain water, creating a sound so comforting, I could just sleep there. These forests are home to many happy birds, for they were singing loudly. It was a nice walk, although short. By the time we got to Carcaboso my feet were achy. But not my leg and hip. hmmm
We arrived in town and passed a church, which was not open, named Santiago Apostol.

It was closed. On the side of it there were someof those Roman miliarios. Well preserved, too. You can make out most of the writing. We found the albergue, paid 10 euros each, and got the keys from the bar and we were taken upstairs to what must have been someone´s home once. The rooms were spacious and private. There was only one other person there that night. We hung our clothes after washing them, but it rained and I got to use the dryer! First one I have seen in Spain. Even my family here does not have one.
We shopped at the market and decided not to eat out today and tonight. We are spending quite a bit more than I expected. Eating out adds up when two people do it. We should try to buy more at the markets. Then young German guy Frank is in town also but decided to stay at the municipal albergue, which is just floor space, not even mats. I was glad to have a bed. He came to visit but the woman that owns this albergue chased him out, telling him that he did not pay to hang out at her albergue. Yikes. Salvador weighed himself at the pharmacy, and he has lost 7.5 kilos. He had weighed himself at the pharmacy in Madrid before leaving. Can this be true? I did not weigh myself. bwahahahaha TOTAL 11 KILOMETERS

May 22 - Cañaveral to Galisteo

2008-06-11T17:40:00.001-07:00

I decided not to walk. We went to Bar Malaga and they prepared some bocadillos for us. Salvador wanted to walk and left with Frank from Germany, a young guy like Sal. I waited for GrouchyMan and he took 3 of us in his car. The other couple is walking from wherever they got dropped off at, with the intention of walking to Galisteo and then being driven back later today to Cañaveral. Then tomorrow they get a ride back to Galisteo and walk some more. All these walking arrangements! I got dropped off, paid him and went to look for the albergue.The woman there was sweet as can be. I settled in and went to explore the town.

The original town is inside the walls.completely surrounding it. The albergue is just outside one of the access points and I head through one of them. It is a simple town, I did not find anything real incredible about it, other than the walls. My little group arrived and we went to a bar for wine,beer and internet. Ate the meal cooked by the women fromthe albergue and went to bed. For Salvador it was a great day. He enjoyed the walk and was looking forward to tomorrow. He has found his rhythm and is happy with it. He took pictures with his camera which I do not have at this time. TOTAL 28 KILOMETERS

May 21 - Casar de Caceres to Cañaveral

2008-06-11T17:39:00.000-07:00

Little aches and pains today. I am definitely not as in good shape as last year. But I move on. And today´s stage is 34 kilometers, no less! During the walk I told Salvador that in my guide it states there is a railroad station at about 20 kilometers. I will take the train which is to arrive at 14:50. The walk was very nice. Magnificent sights.

Mountains far away, and I wonder how long before we get to them. We found a small watering hole along the way and we stopped to brunch.
This German guy passed by at almost a gallop. He walks with a small backpack. His wife drives their car to the next stage and she walks backwards towards him for a few kilometers. That´s one way of doing it. There were tadpoles in the pond, many frogs to come. I layed down on my sarong and took a little sun.... most of the time was sunny, but the wind was chilly.

My backpack rolled down the hill (small hill) and I retrieved it and was pulled back up by Salvador. We saw water up ahead, but the trail took us around a mountain. I loved that walk, for I had to do some climbing. Those large boulders are everywhere! I want some in my backyard. I would find little spots to sit in and feel cradled by them. The kids could play hide and seek.

Each time I thought the trail went that-away, it went another way. I remember last year when walking with Niall we would bet a beer if we had gone over the last hill before the trail would start going down and it was funny how many times we thought, ok that must be the last hill! We did something similar today, except that we did not bet anything. The water was now to our left and we had to keep walking until we got to the bridge that went over the river. Once we crossed it, it was odd that the water was still to our left. The railroad station was coming up and by now I was hurting pretty good. I kissed Salvador goodbye and I took the trail down the hill to the station. He walked on. This was now road walking by the way. UGH!! The RR station was deserted.

It even looked like nothing has gone on there in a while. But I sat at the bench, layed down sometimes, did some sudoku puzzles, peed in the bushes, and finally 2:50 pm comes, and no train. I started wondering about this. I could hear a phone ringing ocassionally inside the station and thought whoever runs the place would arrive any moment. Nope. Still no one and now it is 3pm. I grabbed my backpack and thought, well, I got to walk now. And then I heard it, the train....whistling.

HAPPY HAPPY JOY JOY!!! I walked over to the platform and the damn thing did not slow down. I saw the conductor´s eyes, and he did nothing, not even a hand wave..... and there it went. I was astounded. But not totally surprised since no one had appeared before its arrival. Big Sigh, no tears. My legs are rested, I can walk the next 15 kilometers, or whatever it is. I took it slow, stopped occasionally. Salvador called me as I was crossing the second bridge, and he had arrived in Cañaveral. I told him what had happened and told him I would arrive late, no doubt. I walked on. A pilgrim passed me. Later on I saw him turn into a private albergue, the Miraltajo. I would have stopped there and rested if it had not been that Salvador was waiting for me in Cañaveral. I walked for another hour or so and a mini-van stopped to tell me that I missed my yellow arrow and that the trail went back into the hill. You know how much I love road walking. He offered to take me there and I told him I was hurting and that I could not go back many kilometers and retrace what I had done. He said to get in and that he would take me to Cañaveral. I did not hesitate. I jumped into the back with his wife. A German couple, they were walking a different way. He would drive ahead, take a bus back and then they would walk back to the van. They would sleep in it. All this until she developed some kind of allergy to something that blooms in the area and had to stop. So now they are riding and camping. Wonderful couple, took me 10 kilometers into town. He said it is longer on the road, and that the trail would have been faster. As we went into town, I saw Salvador sitting there, I guess waiting for me, sweet guy. He missed the yellow arrow also and walked along the road the whole way. They dropped me off at the albergue and went back to tell Salvador that I was at the albergue waiting for him. I went into the bar Malaga. A man with a mean face and a mean talk took me to the albergue. He owns the bar, the hostal and the albergue. Salvador arrived and we held a bed for Ceri. She arrived later. Told me she met the man and we dubbed him "grouchy man". She did not want to eat there and I did, the reason being that I wanted to support his bar,since he does not take money for the albergue, a gift to pilgrims. I am grateful to him. We walked around other bars to see what they had to offer and we ended up back at the bar Malaga. It turned out to be the best meal I had so far. He and his grouchy face took wonderful care of us and fed us anything we wanted on the menu del dia. I had a delicious bean soup for first course, rabbit in a wonderful sauce and salad for second course, wine, bread and a great flan, all for 8€!! Salvador and Ceri enjoyed their meal as well. Love that old grouchy man! He knew about my foot and told me he would give me a ride next day to Galisteo. I told him I would see how I felt. I already knew how I felt. I overdid it today, and I was in a lot of pain again in my hip and leg. Salvador walked the whole TOTAL 34 KILOMETERS. I walked probably 24 or 25 of those.

May 20 - Caceres to Casar de Caceres

2008-06-11T17:38:00.003-07:00

We took our time leaving this morning, since it is a short walk. That is one crazy thing along this Via, there are terrible long stages and then one has to do a short one so that the next one is not so long. We have time. I´m not really worried about it. I have had to do some mind shifting, what with being in pain, I have come to an agreement with myself that when necessary either stop or get some help. Hard decision to make, especially with my sights set on walking the whole Via. As told, I have already had to do that. But right now I am doing real well. We walked into Casar de Caceres, known for its famous Torta which I am carrying and will open tonight. The entrance to the town almost seems like it was made for walkers. I was walking through the countryside and then there is a sidewalk. Go on it, through an opening and there is a flower lined walk into town. It has areas for children to play, for the elderly to sit and gab, and just for strolling. Very nice. The town is narrow and long. Finally we are in the middle of town, and go into the ayuntamiento, the town hall, get our credencial stamped and go across the street into the albergue. It is free, not even donativo, a gift from the town for the pilgrims. Smile. We get our beds and settle in. Wash and hang our clothes and then others came in. The middle room filled with older (not like me of course) pilgrims, 1 German (Manfred) and several French, and then our room filled with young (like me) people. This was a nice welcome especially for Salvador, who got to hang with them. A couple from Belgium and an English girl, Ceri, walking solo. Two Italian bikers came in later. Most albergues ahve a book where we can leave messages,notes of gratitude, drawings, which are fun to look at. I write in every one I see.
Ceri and us went to the bar for some wine and beer and cocacola light (Salvador likes to say it with a spanish accent) and chatted a long time. Great girl! She is a quick walker. Moving to India for 1 year after this walk, to do a Yoga intensive training. Salvador and I ate at the albergue, which is equipped with a kitchen, and when Ceri came back we opened the Torta. UGH AACCKKK!! Gross!! What the....!!! I could not stand it. Salvador and Ceri ate alot of it, I gave up. Stinky, and hard....where is that "so creamy you can eat it with a spoon"?
I went to a store to get some food for dinner and they sold Tortas there and I commented on how gross it was, and they told me I probably got an old or bad one. I was pissed! So I bought another one, a different brand and some bread and took it back to the albergue. We had it after dinner, with Ceri as well, and who brought a bottle of wine, and this time......Swoooooooooooonnnnn, it was friggin´awesome!!! So after spending 30 € on Tortas de Casar, I got my fill!,

May 19 - In Caceres

2008-06-11T17:38:00.001-07:00

We woke up at noon! I had no idea it was so late thanks to a very dark room.

It was a Monday and typical for us, we are in another big historical city on a Monday when all touristy places are closed. We walked around the old area of Caceres, which is a Mideval town, beautifully kept as if was still the Middle Ages. You can barely see an electrical wire. Of course there is a car or 2 here and there. The streets are narrow and then there will be a plaza area. It is all stone of course and it will probably be here another thousand years if not more. Built to last. It rained on and off and it was still windy. We bought some postcards and wrote home. We bought a new phone to replace the one we had which although new, did not work right. We had a good dinner at a salad bar, first time I saw that in Spain.. Salvador and I decided we are eating too much and I wonder if we have lost weight. You would think we have, with all that walking. Salvador thinks he has for he notices his face is a little thinner. I agreed especially after he showed me some pictures from early in our adventures, and when I walk behind him, I can make out his calf muscles. We ran into Manfred who had just arrived, looking a bit tired; he is staying in a different hostal. Hung out at the internet place, loading pictures onto my picture sites. While there I spoke with Inga, my friend from Tallahassee. She is going to a photo shoot in France and then will go to Germany to see her friend Martha and the two of them will then come to Spain, wherever I am, pick me up and go be tourists. How cool it will be to see Inga here in Spain. Now the planning. A tablao for sure.
We bought a Torta de Casar and some other foods that are typical of this area, in a specialty shop. I cannot wait to get into the Torta, for I hear it is called the "cheesecake from God"! Not tonight though, we are full!

May 18 - Aldea to Caceres

2008-05-19T07:09:00.001-07:00

Tough night last night but on we went. I got to cook last night and no one ate with us, so we left a big pot of chicken soup. I hope someone tonight will eat it. The temperature is dropping and the wind is picking up. The highlight of my day was when we were walking along a very large pasture and the sheepherder called out to his dogs to move them out. Into our camino. They stayed several yards ahead of us most of the time. There were a couple of sheep who limped (I sympathize) and could not keep up with the herd. They stepped away from the others and stayed behind. Suddenly the dogs turned all the others back around and they headed towards us. Ahead of us, coming at us, were a couple hundred sheep if not more! I had no place to go, and when they got close enough they stopped. We stopped. We jsut kind of stared at each other. I thought, now what? I assume they were thinking the same thing. The dog barked and I told Salvador, I am moving ahead. Suddenly they were moving ahead too and we were surrounded by them. They were scared of us and wanted to avoid us, and I was a bit nervous with the thought of trampling, but we all did just fine. I started singing the tune to Rawhide. *Rolls Eyes* We walked on and came across an airplane field, and read a sign "Danger, Airplane Field - This does not Affect Pîlgrims".
Whatever that means. Just to the other side of it was an old Roman fountain, which water no one should dare drink. We stop for lunch at a gas station where they have made a sweet little gazebo with a picnic table for us. There were a couple of Spanish men we had met earlier on the camino. They were stopping in Caceres and going home until December when they plan to take it back up again.. Alot of people do this. Unable to take 6 or 7 weeks off, they do the Via a couple of weeks at a time until they finish it.
BUT REALLY, WOULD SOMEONE PLEASE MILK THIS COW!! CAN YOU SAY MASTITIS??
The topography is getting better and better all the time. Finally we come near Caceres, which was just down the hill.... which took forever it seems. Like most big cities, once in it, the arrows seem to disappear. But I ask for directions. And they get me to town. We stayed in a hostal right in the center which was recommended by another pilgrim. It was ok. Not having a bathroom in our room sucks. You have to go down the hall to use it. So does everyone else. We ate at the restaurant downstairs and the food was not good at all. A bit disappointed but we found an internet cafe and that was great. I got to catch up with my emails and upload some Camino info, and talk with home. Inga asked me what I liked best so far and I told her the sheep story. You had to be there, I guess. I am now updated with the family and with the Birth Cottage. Rest tonight. TOTAL 22,2 KILOMETERS

May 17 - Alcuescar to Aldea del Cano

2008-05-19T07:08:00.003-07:00

I am handling walking so much better now. Rarely do I feel any pain. Finally! The day has started out beautifully! Skies are clear, although it is chilly. The wildflowers are getting more and more abundant. I think that as we move north, spring is moving north as well. We will probably be in eternal spring!! All around us is eye candy. The skies, the flowers, the birds. Stork nests are all over the place now. The babies are moving around in their little homes, peeking over the sides. I can see plumage, no longer little naked babies. When the mom flies over us I think they look just like they look in cartoons, all they need are the little bundles of babies in their beaks. Aside from these magnificent looking birds, there are many other large birds flying around all the time. Eagles, hawks, falcons (?) I do not know, for sure, although I can make out an eagle, but the others I am not sure.
We crossed an intact small Roman bridge as we entered a town called Casas de Don Antonio. These names!! A nice little fountain made a comfy area to rest and eat a little breakfast. We carry some food with us, nothing too heavy. Fruit unfortunately weighs a lot so one can only carry a little. Today I ate the orange. Less weight in the backpack.
On we went. Another Roman bridge in the middlw of nowhere. I would think that hundreds of years ago, this area must have been a forest, for one can only wonder why there would be a bridge in this particular spot. Another Roman piece of "construction" we see is the Miliario. They are basically mile markers. Placed by the Romans when building the road we are walking on. The distance from one to the next is considered a Roman Mile, which is about 1000 steps or 1.4 kilometers, close to our mile. Hmmm I wonder if our word mile comes from this word, miliario.

We are doing some road walking now and there is a town straight ahead, yessss, almost there!! But wait, why is the road taking us to the left of the town? And further left,hmmm. Now we have the town to our right, and the yellow arrows keeps pointing straight and away fromthe town. We decide to venture into the town anyway and see if it is our chosen destination. Well, yes it is! I still wonder why the camino did not take us into this town. Our guide says there is no albergue there, but a very basic refugio in a nearby school. Luckily we went into the Las Vegas bar and there was our friend, Manfred, from Germany. He said he had the key to the albergue and took us there. Well, this was not a basic refugio, but a very nice albergue. I was so happy, no sleeping on the floor tonight. We paid at the bar and settled in. Manfred was a little high, said he likes this town because it has many many benches for him to sit and relax in! All other peregrinos that arrived today went to a hostal,,,, guess they did not know about the albergue. Conrado from Salamanca joined us, and we were 4 for the night. Back at the bar, we ate and Manfred was drinking a bit heavy and kissing people. Later that afternoon, when he started putting money into people´s pockets, I had to intervene. Drunk people have no idea what they are doing and I wanted to protect him, I just had to. I asked people to give me his money back, I have no idea if they all did, and with a little assistance we got him back to the albergue and put him to bed. I tucked his money into his credencial. Later he went back out and was escorted back by some local guy. I put him to bed. Slept very little that night, between the bar noise and Manfred. Gotta love him! TOTAL 17 KILOMETERS

May 16 - Aljucen to Alcuescar

2008-05-19T07:08:00.001-07:00

Ohhh, I had to wake up and get out of bed!!! After such a great evening yesterday. I felt great! And ready to walk. I had a good walk today, and realized my leg/hip thing was like almost gone! I believe those baths and the physical movements I did helped untwinge me. Oh yeah, and my quiromasadista!
It was very humid, overcast, and we had to put yesterday´s wash pinned to the back of our backpacks hoping they will be dried by our next stop.

We are in the region of Extremadura, and the government has placed these large square stones with the emblem of Extremadura, a Roman arch with the yellow path going through it. You are to follow the direction of that path just like the yellow arrows.
We walked through so many pastures, fields, farms with bulls, cows, pigs,sheep. Today´s walk had a lot of poop on it. I joked we were were on the Via de la Caca. At one point, walking through a farm, the farmer had spread out all the poop so that there was no other thing to do but walk through it. It stunk.
As I walk I have to look down most of the time it seems, to avoid pits, rocks, poop, whatever and notice that the ants are out full force. They make little paths across the camino; so many of them that they have pressed down the soil to actuallly see and trails. I avoid stepping on them all the time. I am reminded of the movie, 7 Years in Tibet, when the monks were moving worms(?) to another place as they dug the ground, for fear of hurting them since they may have been an ancestor in a past life. I don´t want to squash my great aunt Nana!
It was raining on and off, but we did get to use our ponchos for the first time. We had used a little umbrella on other rainy moments, but now it required the ponchos. I end up sweating a bit! Wet no matter what! The fields of boulders are majestic.
I get excited seeing such big rocks! How did they get there? Is this where the Romans went to take stones and make those incredible arches and aqueducts? One of the things I am very amazed at, is the amount of stone walls in Spain. I remember that from last year´s Camino Frances. Thousands of kilometers worth of stone fences, with the stones so neatly placed that they do not require anything to hold them together, and that they are probably hundreds of years old. And just the sheer amount of stones required to make them!! Boggles me.
We are seeing purple arrows. My fave color! They stop at one point. I saw green ones as well and realized they must be the arrows placed for pilgrims walking back, for they are on the other side of trees and posts that I am facing. I wonder how many people walk both ways...
The trail is flanked by those church incense bushes. I love the way it smells, and it gives a sense of tranquility, just like I feel when I sit awhile alone in a church.
We got to Alcuescar and I asked a gentleman if this particular building is the albergue and he was the hospitalero. From the window upstairs he can see us walking up the road and hurries down to the street to greet us. Antonx and Maria Paz are a married couple volunteering for 2 weeks at this albergue. It is a monastery and the priests there take care of the mentally ill. It is very comfortable and it is paid by donativos. Antonx took my rucksack after arguing with me that he wanted to do it since I have walked long enough and it is 34 stairsteps to the albergue. They had water and cookies for us. Salvador and I each had a room to ourselves. There are rooms with 1 bed (like ours), a few with 2 beds and one large room with bunks that were not used that night. I sat outside on the benches to warm up, since it was colder inside than outside, and I was greeted by some of the men that live there. One in particular keeps asking me for a cigarette and a pepsi, and Antonx gives him a cigarette and the guy hides in the bushes to smoke it, since the priests don´t want him smoking. (Don´t tell anybody, I don´t want to get anyone in trouble). 5 minutes later he is next to me asking for a pepsi and a cigarette. They´re lovingly taken care of here. It was very pleasant. Mary Paz gives me a tour fo the church and the chapel for the men who live there. The confession booth is quite old.

For dinner, we ate what the priests ate as well. Very tasty, may I say and by donativo as well. Priests do not eat at the same table as women, and since I was there (and the only woman) there were no priests eating with us that night. Shame. It would be nice to be together. I had no idea that was one of their rules. We all cleaned up together. I really enjoyed this albergue, it felt very real in some kind of way. Hard to explain. TOTAL 21,5 KILOMETERS.

May 15 - Merida to Aljucen

2008-05-19T07:07:00.001-07:00

I left Merida walking! I was so delighted, even though I could still feel some slight pain. Ignoring it can work most of the time. When I start being in pain, that is all I can think of. I just keep looking around at the countryside and that helps alot. But really, it is much much better than it had been. Thanks, Octavio Augusto, quiromasadista!!
That morning we walked along some Roman aqueduct ruins. They look immense, and being early morning and with a beautiful sky they were awesome to see. Leaving Merida was tricky. The camino is broken up due to road building and we followed the yellow arrows and it took us out towards the east and then we were lost for no more arrows were to be seen. We asked many times how to get to where we needed to be and after circumventing this construction area we headed west almost to the road we had left, just further north. All road walking!
Along the way, in Embalse de Proserpina, we rested by a large lake, spreading my sarong to lay on for a while. There was a chilly wind and I keep going from wearing to taking off my fleece all day. Fields of flowers are blooming, the sights are beautiful. Vineyards were abundant, with their early spring leaves filling out.
Walked through a small town that had chickens all over the place, loose.... we dubbed it Chicken Town. Salvador takes a picture of a chicken walking across the road....why did the chicken....ahh never mind.
We get to Aljucen and find Ana at her house. She owns the albergue as well as the hostal or pension where she also lives, with Elena. She takes us to the albergue and I asked her about the Roman Baths sign I saw upon arriving into the town. She called the place for us and they were ready for us to come over. I could not wait. She accompanied us and you would not know it by the plain door, no different than any other you see along the road, but once in there it was incredible.
A young woman owns it and explained the whole reason she opened one up in that particular village.... very simple... she wanted to open one and that village was cheaper than Merida and quieter. It sure is. She decorated it with a Roman look. It is a must see. We were taken into a room where we could change and then she showed us the Baths. OK. If you are a couple you would want to be here together, alone. Yeah well, I was with my son so it was specifically a "let´s do something we ahave not ever done before and hey, it´s thereapy for my legs". I chickened out going into the cold water...well, I made it to just under my navel. She encouraged me to dunk myself but no way! I stayed in it for a little while though. Salvador was already in the warm water and was blissed. I want bliss! This pool is large so once I went into it (ahhhhhhh) I could move my legs around and swing my hips and body around and it felt like the best therapy I could ever have! I stayed in that pool quite a while, for the next one, the hot one, is the end. It was magical being in the hot one. It is rather smallish but it´s perfect for just soaking in it. Out time was up (was it really almost 2 hours already?) and we got out and went to pay. Get this... she cahrged us 5€ for the both of us!! Why? Well, she explained that this day was Mercury Day. The god Mercury represented profit, thievery in commerce. So, on this day, people who own stores or services charge half price as a way to honor him and give back to the community for the "thievery" commited against them. Awesome!! I kind of felt bad only paying 5 euros for such service.

Then we headed to our albergue. We were the only ones there that day,,,,we had the place to ourselves. Salvador chose a different room just so that he could have one night without hearing me snore. SMILE.
Ana was waiting for us back at her house for dinner, so we went there. Turns out she had no one staying there either. We were the only peregrinos in Aljucen! She served us a delicious meal and we got to chat a bit. After dinner she poured a little bit of Liqueur made from acorns, a specialty of that area. It was sweet and very good. Then she showed us her home, including her house, the attic of the place. She was very nice and I highly encourage people to stay in Aljucen. Oh, she also gave us a private tour of the church, since she gets to hold the keys for the place. We went to bed all happy. What a great day! TOTAL 17 KILOMETERS.

May 12 - Fuente de Cantos to Merida

2008-05-19T07:06:00.000-07:00

Okay, Okay, I was looking for the sign, and nothing came down like lightning. What did happen was that people told me to take it easy. Enough people told me that until I felt obliged to honor their wishes (yes, I know). So I told Salvador, walking or coming with me. Not sure why, really, since he has been enjoying the walking and even wanted to walk by himself a few times, but he decided to go with me. We went to the bus station in Fuente and took the next bus to Merida. A quick ride later we were there. The bus station was right by the modern bridge that crosses into the casco viejo (old town) and I made it into Merida. From that bridge you can see the ancient Roman bridge right across the way. I was in a lot of pain at this point and was glad we did not have to go too far to find the albergue. As we were coming back from the tourist center, coming straight at us was Manolo. We were all happy to run into each other again and we met back up at the albergue. Juanito the hospitalero was not there yet so the 3 of us and now 4, with Jordi from Barcelona, spread my sarong on the ground and turned it into our dining table. Manolo got on his bike and brought back bread and fruit, we all took out what we had in our packs and made a splendid lunch. Juanito came and we moved into the albergue. It was full by the late afternoon. This albergue, El Molino de Pan Caliente, is very nice, very clean. And the location is awesome. At night though, the street lights come in through the windows and shines right on our faces, no problem, I put my head at the foot of the bed (why didn´t anybody else?).
That evening we walked a little to find some dinner, then headed back to sleep. Next day Salvador and I found the hostal we had heard about and moved in for another couple of days. In all we stayed in Merida 3 nights.
Monday, yeah, all museums and touristy sights are closed, so we did not get to visit the the amphitheater but got a sneak peek of it through the fence. Oh how I wish I could have been standing in the middle of it. Just for the sheer feeling of ancient energy. We did get to see some of the other Roman ruins and now wish to go back as a tourist.
My purpose for staying in Merida was to rest the leg/hip/foot issue and find a therapist for it. Took a while, but finally I found someone who could see me and off I went to his office. He is called a quiromasajista, like a combination chiropractor and massage therapist. I renamed him quiromasadista! Octavio Augusto, how is that for a Roman name. Nice man.... until he touched me. Pain, all pain!! Definitely not like the wonderful massages I got back at home. But this was therapy, got to get that hip and leg thing resolved! At the end he pulled on my leg so hard and jerked it so violently, that I left with knee pain which I did not have when I arrived. I rested after that. The next day I went back for more!UGH, but I knew what I needed and asked him to skip the leg jerking part. Instead his helper came in too and they held me down adn turned my hip one way and my shoulders the other and I yelled at them. Oh my goodness!! But, guess what... I felt like I could walk.
Manolo and I went to a Jazz bar with live music and it was very nice. He left the next day.
Salvador and I took it easy, a little sightseeing, ate out every time. He really enjoyed the Montaditos restaurant, where there are over 100 different tiny sandwiches to choose from.

May 11 - Monesterio to Fuente de Cantos

2008-05-19T07:04:00.002-07:00

I am walking again. So hard not to. Each time I ride I get so disappointed, for what I want to do more than anything is walk. That is why I came! So we walk. No rain, just chilly. We left before the others. Just outside town Manolo rides up and stops to say goodbye. The area is very nice. I am enjoying it, trying not to think about pain. Which right now is not so bad....but wait. I know what everyone tells me, but hey, I have to wait for the sign, what sign???? I don´t know!!! By the way, I pee often in the bushes. Salvador is very patient with me for I probably pee 4 times for each time he does. And I never throw toilet paper on the ground. I take it with me. Which is something I must mention. Compared to the Camino Frances this walk is void of litter. It is so refreshing, for I remember the CF had so much of it. Void of litter on what is considered the camino, because when in cities or along main roads there is a lot of litter, which obviously is not from pilgrims, otherwise it would also be seen along the camino. I congratulate everyone of us for being so careful about our loved Via. I had to stop and rest. My leg was hurting. Moos caught up with us and he wanted to rest a bit also. So I started walking alone slowly and told them they would catch up with me at some point soon, but that I was going to thumb a ride. I walked by a pig farm adn all those piggies were scattered around until they heard me approaching. All of a sudden it was like a pig magnet appeared (me) and they came up to the gate screaming and clammoring over each other to see me. It must have been feeding time and they thought I was the food. It was so funny I wish I had videoed instead of a picture, but here they are... It was a long time before I was on a main road that led to a major road. I stayed at the stop sign until they caught up with me. They went across the road and stayed on the camino and I turned right, onto a paved (!!!) road. It was a pretty walk today. I stayed on that side road and no one picked me up. I stopped at a small brook and rested for a bit. By now it was sunny with a chilly wind. I wrapped myself up in my sarong (multi-use, I love having it) and made it to the main road. It was a sunday.... hardly anyone on the road. I walked and walked and started getting upset that these guys were walking on a beautiful camino and I was on this highway, on asphalt, and km after km was going by. I stopped often to get the cramps to subside and finally, finally someone stopped. A young man was on his way to pick up his daughter for the day in Fuente de Cantos. He told me he liked me and wanted me to meet his daughter. We stopped to pick her up and she is adorable, 5 years old. I told him he should make a dozen of them, he laughed, rolled his eyes. Then he dropped me off at the albergue. The albergue is in an old convent. The place is very spacious, the rooms, the living area, the courtyard, the place to hang your clothes, all large. It rained and we had to hang our clothes to dry in the room. There was one room with just 2 beds and the Iranian couple had that one. They were so quiet, for any attempt at conversing was difficult. They knew none of our languages and we did not know theirs. But lots of smiles. They burned incense and it wafted into our room, I loved it, for I am carrying the same incense they are burning. Something in common. I met Peter from Galway,Ireland and we went out for a beer. The guy is young... first young person I met besides my son, and he is teaching English in Salamanca. Peter is learning Japanese, for he is going to Japan to teach English. That is his work. Travel and get to know the world and teach English. Great way to see the world. I enjoyed our conversations, they were deep. Notice I am not writing anything about my feelings,sentiments, etc.... this blog is for me to remember what I did, who I met, where I went. My thoughts, feelings are mine to keep. The Via, like the CF gives time to reflect, to plan, etc. Everyone I have known comes away with positive mental experiences. Although I do love reading other people´s blogs where they share intimate emotional experiences. I went into the chapel. Since it is Sunday, all is closed except for that bar, so we all ended up eating dinner there. The place was full of men all watching the bullfights, a commom thing to do in the evenings. I know it bothers many people, but I don´t let it bother me. It is their customs, their traditions. And I can see it is changing as younger people in Spain are feeling different ethically from the older generation. TOTAL 22 KILOMETERS. I DID ABOUT 18 OF THOSE!

May 10 - Real to Monesterio

2008-05-19T07:04:00.001-07:00

Funny episode during the night. I was sound asleep and at one point I felt something on my leg. I opened my eeyes and waited to feel more and decided it was my sleeping bag settling down onto my leg. Then I felt it a little firmer against my leg. OK, is someone trying to get into bed with me? Manolo? Who? HAhaha. I sit up quickly and turn to look and banged my head onto the bunk above. Nothing there. So I threw my covers open, thinking snake, and hear a meeooowwww. PHEW!! I pushed the cat off my bed and he jumped back on it, so I shooood him out the door, which apparently can be pushed open by the cat. I put a chair up to it so that he cannot get back in. This morning Finnish guy was the first one up and I wonder what he thought. The bikers left early. Manolo is also on bike. He started in Sevilla, is biking to Santiago then the Camino Frances to SJPP and then home to Albacete where he lives. Quite the trek! He left next with plans to meet later in Monesterio. I made the decision to bus to Monesterio due to my leg thing (grrrr) so Salvador and Moos left together. Yeah, well, there is no bus service on Saturday. So I had to hire a taxi and I was in Monesterio in a flash (30 € later). He charges 30€ whether he is taking one or 4 pilgrims, one or 10 rucksacks. I checked into a hostal, because there are no albergues there. I bought a few groceries and waited for the guys. Manolo arrived first adn checked into another hostal. Salvador and Moos arrived and after resting a bit, we went to a museum of the Via de la Plata (not mentioned in the CSJ guide, by the way). It is pouring now. Amazing how little the rain has actually fallen on us while walking. Really, none. But at night, downpours! The weather is now much chillier. Skies overcast and very windy. I have no pictures of today. Maybe Salvador does and he walked a TOTAL 21 KILOMETERS.

May 9 - Almaden to Real de la Jara

2008-05-19T07:03:00.002-07:00

The 3 of us (Moos, Salvador and I) were the last to leave. Angel woke me up, gave me a piece of paper with his phone number and told me he was going to walk further ahead today. This 75 year old man is walking 40+ kilometer days from now on. Puts some of us to shame (not because how fast he´s walking the Via, but because his body can do so much)! On we went and it was another nice walk. The skies are overcast and a bit chilly. Unfortunately, it was another road day! See, the Guardia Civil yesterday as well as the woman of the albergue told me the road through the private estate was closed now. Pissed me off!! Why? When we got to Real de la Jara, Esmeralda told me that nooooo, the estate was open and that the road was beautiful! The CSJ guide says it is open, but we went with what the people had told us and bummer, they were wrong. Several of us were disappointed with this. Lesson.... ???
Either way, it was a nice walk, for the sides of the road we walked on was full of farms with bulls, sheep and those black (yummy ham) pigs. Oak trees in abundance, for these pigs eat acorns, which helps make their ham the best tasting in the world! The scents of the bushes, the flowers is intoxicating. I do not know the name of it, but the scent of church incense is all around us. The flowers from those bushes are blooming. I love it! The stork nests, which are on every corner of every tall building, especially churches are occupied by the mamas and little little babies. I can see their little bills poking over the sides of the nests. I cannot wait to see them taking their first flights. We are now in town and went to the ayuntamiento to get our credenciales stamped and pay our fees but it was closed with a note to go to the woman´s house who works there and let her know we are here. We do so; I notice I am limping a little more than earlier today and feel much pain. hmmm. We went back to the albergue which is at the beginning edge of town. You walk into a dining room and there are bedrooms on wither side with a small kitchen. It feels like you are in a cave, and have to duck yourhead as you go from room to room. The flies....oh my,the flies! Dozens of them in there. UGH! Salvador passed the time catching them. Then he and Moos went to the castle to explore it. At night it is lit up. Finally we go back to the ayuntamiento and wait for the woman. We meet a young man from Finland who speaks perfect Spanish. As we pay, Manolo arrives. Manolo is someone who had contacted me through a forum I belong to. We had hoped to meet and exchanged phone numbers. I recognized him right away when he arrived and we hugged. So cool we were able to accomplish a meeting. We went back to the albergue and was happy we were staying on the second floor. Spacious, wonderful and NO FLIES! Moos, Manolo, Salvador and I went to town and had tapas for dinner. We let Manolo order since he knew what sounded good and we had an enjoyable dinner. The pain in my leg is worrying me. TOTAL 16 KILOMETERS

May 8 - Castilblanco to Almaden de la Plata

2008-05-19T07:03:00.001-07:00

We left early (early for us, everyone else except Moos was gone). The town was still asleep. I believe only 1 bar was open. We walked among all the little white homes and out of town, over the road. And on and on the road went. I meant to share that I have this little hip pain that radiates down my right leg, which at times becomes quite painful. So far it has not given me too much trouble, other than achiness. Walking on the road for so long starts to wear on my little bones. And this etapa is a very long one. I had to stop a few times to rest my leg and as we were approaching the turnoff to go into the park, I knew I had to stop. At this point I had walked almost 17 kilometers. If I had known, I would have taken a ride to the entrance to the park and walked the rest. But I was scared that I would get in trouble once going up the steep mountain. I really wish I had done that. For the worst part was that long and boring road, and the best part was yet to come.... a climb to El Berrocal, about 200 meters higher than where we were, and straight up. I told Salvador to keep going and that I would thumb a ride. Moos was waiting for us at the entrance of the park and Salvador really wanted to do it. I did not fear hitch-hiking (last time I hitchhiked was in 1970 with 2 other girls through Spain, France and England, on our way to the Isle of Wight music festival).
Off he went and I sat there for a moment. I could hear a car coming in the distance and I got up and walked to the other side of the road and stuck out my thumb. It was the Guardia Civil!! I remember how scared the people were of the brutal Guardia Civil in the times of Franco. Well, they were very nice men and stopped for me and took me to Almaden de la Plata and dropped me off right in front of the albergue. I waited for Salvador and Moos at the albergue. It was raining, everyone was wet. The woman at the albergue set up heaters for people to dry their clothes. Again the albergue filled up. Quite a few cyclists this time. Half had done the road the other half went over the Berrocal and were nursing their very tired leg muscles. Salvador swears he lost a kilo on this walk today. He took pictures through the park, El Berrocal, where there are beautiful views. (Once I can get his camera I can post some of thos pics). The skies opened up and poured heavily, but that did not stop anyone from going out to eat. Again the 4 of us ate together. Moos who is from Holland, is a very friendly man. (I think he´s a Viking) It was good for Salvador to have him as a walking buddy. TOTAL 29,4 KILOMETERS.

May 7 - Guillena to Castilblanco de los Arroyos

2008-05-19T07:02:00.000-07:00

I did not feel too tired this morning. Even after an uncomfortable sleep. Not quite used to hard floors! We took our time and were the last to leave. A little road walking, not too much and finally on real paths, which gives me a better feeling that I am on a Camino. The ground is still a bit flat, very gentle rises here and there, but nothing that taxes the breath. We went through many gates, ran into Esmeralda (Peru) and her German friend. Wildflowers are starting to show themselves, that makes me a very happy pilgrim. Flowers are something that gives me such pleasure. At home my gardens, my pots are full of flowering plants. My birth center is maintained by gardeners that make our place so beautiful that people who are stopped in traffic in front of our buiilding have called us on their cell phones to tell us they love our garden. Yes, flowers fill me with beauty. We are walking among olive trees and oaks, a rocky path that requires alot of looking down. Still, I stop and turn around so I can see where we have been, take a swig of water and look ahead. I am starting to feel good, content. We arrive in Castilblanco de los Arroyos and quickly find the albergue, located behind a petrol station. We are some of the first there, all our friends from Guillena are already settled in. We shower, wash clothes and rest. The albergue has a patio just outside the door and one can see over the rooftops of the town. All the houses are white, with red roofs. The sun is setting and making those colors that makes one feel peaceful. Many others arrived, a couple on bikes and then all the beds were full. Today many Germans and a couple from Iran. I heard later that this past Saturday night, while everyone was asleep, some guys came in with a fire extinguisher and sprayed the pilgrims that were by the door with it, then ran out. The police were called and no one knows whatever became of it. Luckily it was not us, for Sal and I were sleeping in the same beds. We went to a bar for dinner just across the street and ate with Angel and Moos. Angel is an amazing man. This is his 15th Camino. He has walked them all and this is the 5th time on the Via de la Plata. He says this is his favorite...why? "You´ll see", he tells me. I smile, I cannot wait! Pilgrim menu was not too bad; Salvador loves to say albóNdigas. TOTAL 17,8 KILOMETERS

May 6 - From Sevilla to Guillena

2008-05-19T06:40:00.000-07:00

We went to the cathedral and got our credencials stamped. Looked for the signs, the arrows, anything we could find and made our way out of the city. It was a hot day. A very hot day! We were in good spirits. Leaving Sevilla, we passed through an old gypsy camp. It is not like the gypsy camps I remember when I was 13 and living in Spain for 9 months; no, there were no typical characters, women dressed with long dresses, brown skin, squatters on a piece of land. Here instead were what we call trailers, dirty ones, litter all over the ground, old cars in disrepair, in some it looked like they were living in them. No, they do not have that gypsy look, now it looks yucky. I felt like part of the culture was lost.
Along the road we hear rifle shots going off every couple of minutes. No idea if we were in a hunting area, but nope. Here come men on horses followed by a caravan of hundreds of carts being pulled by bulls, oxen, horses, donkeys or tractors. Each one had several people in it. Reminded me of a wagon train. On foot were many people. Women dressed in their native flamenco type dresses, men in theirs as well (suits, not dresses). We stopped a couple of women and asked what was going on and they said it was their Romeria to El Rocio. I took a picture of Salvador with them. Every town in Spain has a Romeria, a walk, a pilgrimage of sorts to their local holy place, where they will do religious rites, eat, sing, play music and dance. Good times. I sure wished we had been asked to join them, for I can just imagine what that night would have been like. We moved on. We went through Santiponce- Italica- a site with Roman ruins. We spent a short time there not realizing we missed alot of it. Have to go back there as well someday. Then on and on we went in this heat! The road was long, no shade for a long time. I saw a tree in the distance and was looking forward to getting to it. But I think it kept moving further away, for it seemed forever before we got to it. A little stream that had a bridge under water, so we went looking for a place to cross it. A fallen tree served that purpose- we crossed it and got to that tree and promptly spread my sarong and layed down. Salvador did as well on his and we fell asleep for a little while. A couple came by and that woke us up enough to get it together to move on. So we did. Arrived in Guillena. Found the "albergue". NO way in hell that this is an albergue. I argued (not really) with the young man who was in the gym. How can this be? Imagine a locker room.... two benches....two mats. That´s it. Now imagine these mats were trampled on and full of dirt. The floor of the place littered with garbage. The toilet, with no door, no seat, full of shit. The sink almost gray with so much crap. On the other side of the buidling was a twin room. One man was sleeping there. I was dismayed. I was so tired that it was inconceivable that this could be what this town was offering as shelter to us. I called Patricia, a woman I know from one of the forums I am on and who apparently had decided not to stay here (she was walking 2 weeks before me). I called a hostal, too expensive. So reminded myself of the saying, "a tourist demands, a pilgrim is greatful". So I asked for a spray cleaner and cloth and cleaned the mats, the toilets and the sink. By now, Moos, from Holland had arrived and he got the broom, swept the place and picked up the litter. OK. Better now, especially with others there. That is what makes anything bearable. The company of others. 4 mats, 6 people. One man put the benches together and slept on that, another one on his sleeping bag on the floor. Ivan from France, Angel from Spain, Moos from Holland and Manfred from Germany. And Salvador and I. We took our shower, ate what we had in our bag, washed clothes and slept. TOTAL 22,6 KILOMETERS

To Sevilla - let´s start

2008-05-19T06:17:00.000-07:00

After spending a few days in Madrid and Valencia visiting family, we took a plane to Sevilla on the 4th of May to start our journey. Realized too late that we cannot get to see Granada and Cordoba´s wonderful sites, since you have to reserve or buy tickets ahead of time, so stayed in Sevilla only a couple of days. But what a beautiful city! I must come back as a regular tourist someday. The hostal was charming, the Hostal Picasso, although we had to share our room with 3 others, just like a pilgrim´s albergue....and not so cheap either. We walked around, saw several sites, went to the cathedral and its magnificent organ and Salvador wanted to see a futbol game, so headed to the stadium, bought tickets and saw a live game. Sevilla against some other team (ahh my memory). We rooted for the home team which was good, since we were amongst thousands of fans and they also won. Sevilla is so beautiful!! We went to the Plaza España, architecturally a splendid place. I fell in love with this builing. Due to a water shortage (?) the fountains were not in operation, so we missed an extra of this gem. I met with Maite, a midwife from Sevilla I had connected with online. We went to a little cafe, chatted a while.... I gave her a poster I had brought from home, and she gave me a little booklet of thoughts and stories of births. It was so nice to meet up with a midwife from Spain and ask and listen to her speak of the status of midwifery and home birth. She likes my birthing center, which she was online, and wants me to come help her open one up here. Hmmm, an open door... We went to the Office of the Amigos del Camino where we bought our credencial and some pins. It was nice chatting with these volunteers, who have a wealth of information of the different Caminos. Ate in the Toro room of the Bar Miami, where we were served a huge plate of different types of meats. We had a friendly folkloric server. Loved her. Yeah, and good protein. The night before we left we went to a tablao, a hole in the wall with not even a name above its door, and saw an incredible show of flamenco. One guitarist, one singer and one dancer. Rows of tables filled with spectators, drinking all kinds of things, and enjoying themselves. A "volunteer" in the audience came up and danced with the woman. It was awesome!! I watch this dancing and feel it deep in my heart. Their faces, either showing pleasure or pain or both..... very sensuous! We just happened to sit across a couple with their baby. She went to school with Layla and Kevin. Leon High School, class of 89. How small the world!

2008-04-26T08:05:00.000-07:00

Tomorrow Salvador and I will be leaving for Spain and starting our walk. I believe our walk will take about 7 weeks. Salvador has no idea what he just signed up for..... bwahahaha. He told me he is adding a nice shirt in case he meets a senorita.

I will think of you often.

Think of us and send healing thoughts to our feet!!
Some of you have not seen my video of pics from the Camino Frances,some of you are probably rolling your eyes (there she goes again). Enjoy.

http://vids.myspace.com/index.cfm?fuseaction=vids.individual&VideoID=26561450
Now where's that Viking?

Kisses
Lillian Alicia

2008-04-04T10:36:00.000-07:00

On my Santiago forum there is an incredible group of people who give and give, stories and advice and information, to all of us who are embarking on our Caminos. I too share, since I am now a Camino veteran. In today's forum there were some beautiful writings that moved me. This one is from Sillydoll, who expresses her sentiments in such a way that I felt it spoke not just for her but for all of us as well. I want to share with you.

"You can almost pick out pilgrims who have walked a long distance on their camino - they have that chilled out (almost spaced out!) laid back, no fuss look about them. We met an Austrian in Foncebadon who had walked from home. He was so quiet and withdrawn, tanned and weather beaten that he almost blended into the landscape. Pilgrims who are just starting out or who have only been walking for a few days still have a clean-cut, worried, apprehensive, sometimes ‘loud’ look about them – like the group of pilgrims we met at Sarria who stood out with their clean clothes, raucous songs and never-ending banter.
The first few days on the camino are an anxious time for most. I think ‘jet-lag’ is a symptom of your soul trying to catch up with your body - especially if you have flown across oceans and continents to get there. It takes me at least 3 or 4 days to get over jet-lag and settle into the rhythm of the camino - getting ready in the morning, setting out into a strange land and walking every day.
The camino breaks you in slowly. At first you are shattered at the end of each day but then the endorphins take over and you get used to the adrenaline rush. You can only start to relax once the backpack is comfortable, the shorts don’t creep, the shoelaces are tied properly and once you become accustomed to spotting the yellow arrows you stop fretting about getting lost. You start to ‘go with the flow’ and you lose sense of time. After a few of weeks you get into the Zen-zone. You become one with nature and all your senses are alert – like antennae – and you can hear a gentle wind, a field mouse, crickets in the wheat and listen to the silence.
Last year my husband joined us in Sarria and walked for 7 days and although he enjoyed it very much, he said that he didn’t think he could do that for 6 weeks. I explained that one doesn’t repeat that first settling in week over and over again. The first week is the most difficult but you get fitter and fitter as time goes by; you stop fighting the camino and let it take over and when you do that, you become a part of it and that is the addictive essence of the camino. That is why we keep going back for more."

Yeah.

Cutesy Backpack

2008-03-26T19:40:00.000-07:00

I took my backpack from last year's walk along the Camino Frances and decorated it with some puff paints. Then Diana reminded me of the extra weight that the paint will add to my total weight. I laughed because it does mean extra weight, even if in grams. And there are people who cut the handle of their toothbrush in half just to remove a few grams!! So no more decorating.OH.... and the little smears? Courtesy of my doggie Shiloh whose happy tail swished through the wet paint. Shiloh now sports a colorful tail.
"Basic equipment on these journeys is Will/Love/Intelligence. Will guarantees success. Love clarifies one's motivation. Intelligence plans sensible care en route."

Salvador is Walking

2008-03-23T18:05:00.000-07:00

I received a voucher from Delta last July for offering to bump me off the flight I was on with my friend Betsy. I was in Tampa and flying home so instead they flew me to Pensacola, paid for a car rental and I was home 3 hours later than intended. But I got a 400 dollar voucher. Oh yeah... Betsy said oh yeah too.
So lately I was freaking out that I would lose the voucher unless I used it soon.... and since I an going to Spain in April and not coming back until July I had to do something. I thought about going to California to attend the American Pilgrims conference, I thought about going to St Thomas and joining my brother in his sailing races... other ideas but nothing came through. So I asked my son Salvador if he would be interested in going to Spain with me. He just left his job, he needs to move out of his apartment soon since his lease is up and he intends in starting college in the autumn. So, I offered and he actually said yes. WOW. I was a bit surprised since offers to fly him somewhere over the last few years have been answered with an I don;t know. I am so excited that he is going to our mother land, that he is going to experience a different culture, ours; that he will meet family and that he will share the experience of the Camino with me. We are flying in different airlines through different connections but we will arrive in Madrid 15 minutes apart. Then it's off we go!

Round 2

2008-02-23T21:12:00.001-08:00

It was easy to make this decision. Since I returned from my first Camino, the Camino Frances (see other blog), I have not had a moment where that experience has not popped up in my thoughts. I belong to several forums which I check several times daily to see what others are writing about and now I am participating as a veteran pilgrim.
As a result, and understanding now why others walk across Spain more than once, I have decided to go again. Yes it was only last August when I started over the Pyrenees to head to Santiago and Finisterra but I feel a strong calling to go back.
I remember when people here in Tallahassee that I knew talked about earth changes and how so many people were moving to North Carolina to start communities so that they could build camaraderie and live together.... and now I feel a bit like that. Like I have a community of pilgrims from all over the world who feel compelled to live and relive this Pilgrimage.
A basic human need to belong is in all of us. As a midwife I teach the importance of community to my families, so that as they bring babies into the world they feel supported. I help them by becoming aware of this need and giving tips on how to do it. I belong to that community, and just as I have given I have also received.
But now I have a new community. Although it exists over the internet, I have a sense of belonging that supports and helps me to justify this crazy need to walk across Spain!
I got my ticket, and I am leaving April 27th, arriving April 28th in Madrid. Then I will head south to Sevilla where I will walk over a different Camino, the Via de la Plata. This one is a little bit longer, almost 1000 kilometers. I will walk with the same joy as I did before... I will walk and meet others like me.... I will sleep with them, eat and share wine with them... talk, share stories and be in love with them... I will be alone, I will think, I will sing, I will pray, I will probably cry at some point, I will do so much...